Originally released in 1996, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas marked the revival of the brand’s first luxury sports watch, the 222, which was launched in 1977 to celebrate Vacheron’s 222nd anniversary. Like many icons, the Overseas has evolved over the years and now spans across three generations, with the third debuting in 2016. This latest iteration carries forward aesthetic cues from its predecessors while integrating subtle technical refinements and comforts that reflect Vacheron’s approach to contemporary watchmaking.
Perhaps the last accessible high-end stainless steel sports watch, the Overseas stands shoulder to shoulder with the likes of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus in terms of quality, finishing, and engineering—yet remains comparatively well-priced. Long overshadowed by its peers, the Overseas has, since its 2016 revamp, established its own distinct identity, with qualities many collectors now consider on par, if not superior, to the Royal Oak or Nautilus.
The example of an Overseas 4500V we have here today embodies this modern renaissance. Its Maltese cross-inspired integrated bracelet features Vacheron’s innovative quick-release system, allowing seamless strap changes. The bracelet also incorporates an ingenious extension mechanism that offers a tool-free 4 mm of total adjustment via two concealed 2 mm extensions within the butterfly clasp.
Dedicated to going the extra mile, the 4500V also showcases one of the most incredible dials in watchmaking; an electric blue lacquered dial with white gold applied indices marking the hours and subtle silver logos. This provides a colourful visual edge to its aesthetic while also being highly legible with two separate concentric chapter rings along its periphery. One is numbered for the minutes, while the other is hashed along the rehaut to mark the seconds. Together, they lend a refined sense of depth to the overall design.
Measuring 41mm x 11mm, the stainless-steel case combines satin-brushed and polished surfaces that emphasise the interplay between the sharp bezel and deep blue dial. Powered by the stunning in-house automatic Cal. 5500, it features a 22-carat gold oscillating weight, 60 hours of power reserve, and a myriad of beautiful finishing techniques, all on display behind its sapphire crystal exhibition screw-down caseback, which provides the watch with a rather robust 150m of water resistance.
While it may have been overlooked in recent years, the Overseas time has indeed come. With a dial design unlike anything from its peers, a detailed construction that would put most brands to shame, and practical versatility implemented to ease everyday use, the Overseas has rightfully earned its place among the very best luxury integrated sports watches available today.
