A perennial favorite among vintage collectors, the Universal Genève Polerouter is an oddity, going against common collecting conventions. Famous for being designed by a young Gerald Genta, who was only 24 years old at the time—and incidentally also the designer of the two most iconic watches of the 20th century, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus — the Polerouter is every bit as iconic.
I call the Polerouter an oddity because it has consistently offered excellent value and has been priced very reasonably. Typically, as collectors progress to acquiring higher-end pieces, they rarely revisit more affordable options. However, the Polerouter is a watch that somehow defies this trend, enduring as a beloved reference/design that keeps even the most hardcore collectors coming back for more, despite its price point.
In my opinion, the Polerouter stands out as one of Gerald Genta's most classically beautiful designs. Even when compared to horological icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Polerouter remains a significant chapter of Genta's legacy. To truly appreciate its beauty, one must wear it on the wrist, as great design often transcends visual appeal, and the Polerouter embodies this notion perfectly. While it may not immediately dazzle in photographs, once worn, its twisted lyre-like lugs delicately hug the wrist, and the circular case contrasts elegantly with the boxy feel created by the wide lugs. The combination of the glossy black dial, beautifully executed with a delicate crosshair at the center, luminous markers, the trapezoidal date window aperture, dauphine hands, and the outer silver track is perhaps what makes this watch so unique. It certainly carries that Mad Men-esque vintage dress feel.
Powering the watch from within is the self-winding Universal Genève Cal. 218 micro-rotor movement, which was ingeniously designed from scratch to facilitate a gracefully thin case. Coupled with this reference's slightly larger size, measuring 35.5mm, it is, in my opinion, one of the best Polerouter references to pursue—especially for those looking for a stylish, timeless design that's both elegant and wearable.
