Independent watchmaking is perhaps more exciting today than it has ever been. While established names such as F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour and Kari Voutilainen have become some of the most coveted watchmakers in the world, a new generation of independents is beginning to emerge behind them. Among this new wave, few have made an impact quite as quickly as Simon Brette.
Before launching his own brand, Brette spent over a decade working behind the scenes as a movement constructor, with experience at Chronode, MCT and MB&F. In 2023, he finally unveiled his first watch, the Chronomètre Artisans, and the response was almost immediate. His inaugural 12-piece Souscription series went on to win the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2023 GPHG, firmly establishing Brette as one of the most exciting young names in independent watchmaking.
Following the original 12-piece zirconium Souscription, the Chronomètre Artisans Titanium became the first broader production evolution of the watch. Importantly, very little was diluted in the transition. It retains the same Cal. SBCA and extraordinary level of hand finishing as the Souscription, with the main differences being its Grade 5 titanium case and distinctive "Tiger Claws" hand-engraved dial. Even then, production remained incredibly small, with fewer than 99 examples made, and the entire Titanium edition is now sold out.
The case itself measures a beautifully proportioned 39mm in diameter, 10.5mm thick and just 45mm lug-to-lug. Made from Grade 5 titanium, the overall shape appears relatively simple at first, but there is a lot going on upon closer inspection. Satin-finished surfaces contrast against polished concave bevels, while a small rose gold dovetail-shaped insert on the caseband has become something of a signature for Brette. It is a subtle reference to his father, who was a cabinetmaker, and a lovely detail that speaks to the artisanal philosophy behind the watch.
The dial is undoubtedly one of the highlights. Made from solid 5N rose gold, it features Brette's distinctive "Tiger Claws" pattern, painstakingly engraved entirely by hand to create an almost three-dimensional mosaic across its surface. The asymmetrical layout places the small seconds at approximately 9:15, while portions of the dial are opened to reveal the mechanics beneath. The flame-blued steel hands are mirror-polished, rounded and bevelled by hand, and the combination of rose gold, blue steel and the darker movement underneath gives the watch an incredible amount of depth.
As impressive as the dial is, turn the watch over, and things get even better. Powering the Chronomètre Artisans is the manually wound Cal. SBCA, an original movement developed specifically for the watch and built around a wonderfully symmetrical architecture dominated by its large balance wheel. Two barrels arranged in parallel provide approximately 72 hours of power reserve, while the balance beats at a wonderfully traditional 18,000 vibrations per hour.
The finishing is quite extraordinary. The ruthenium-finished bridges and plate feature extensive hand finishing, with broad polished bevels, mirror-polished concave screws set within solid rose gold chatons and beautifully finished wheels with hand-polished bevels. There are 194 components in the movement alone and 226 in the completed watch, with seemingly no part overlooked.
Perhaps most importantly, the name "Artisans" isn't simply marketing. Brette openly credits the specialists involved in creating each watch, with 12 artisans contributing their respective crafts and each named in the individual passport accompanying the watch. Among them are some particularly respected names in their respective fields, including master hand engraver Yasmina Anti, responsible for the extraordinary hand-engraved dial, signature and numbering; Luc Monnet, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France who produced and finished various movement components using traditional methods; and hairspring specialist Nadine Görgl, responsible for assembling the balance and hand-forming its Breguet terminal curve. I find this particularly refreshing. Watches produced at this level are rarely the work of one individual, and Brette embraces rather than hides the collective craftsmanship behind them.
For a watchmaker who only launched his first watch in 2023, Simon Brette has achieved an incredible amount in a remarkably short period of time. His watches have also become extraordinarily difficult to acquire, with the Titanium edition and all subsequent released editions completely sold out and production across the brand remaining extremely limited. It is a familiar story among the best of this new generation of independent watchmakers, where there are simply far more collectors wanting the watches than pieces available.
