I believe the Rolex Submariner is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable and collectable watches of all time—period. At some point in every enthusiast’s collecting journey, the Rolex Submariner, whether modern or vintage, serves as a benchmark of quality and collectability. What I find particularly compelling about vintage Rolex Submariners, in contrast to their contemporary counterparts, is that they represent an era when Rolex was genuinely focused on creating a tool watch capable of enduring the harshest conditions, rather than prioritizing the concept of luxury. This commitment underscores the purity of the Submariner’s design language from that time. With such a rich history spanning decades, the Rolex Submariner has evolved and seen many iterations and references throughout its lifetime, but its lineage remains unmistakably clear.
The watch offered here today is a particularly sought-after Ref. 5508 Submariner from the early '60s, featuring a rare ‘exclamation’ gilt dial. For context, the Ref. 5508 was first introduced in 1958, and while it wasn’t the first Submariner ever produced by Rolex, it marked a significant turning point for the brand as this was a period when Rolex was extensively experimenting with the Submariner design and was moving towards standardization. Consequently, the Ref. 5508 became the last Submariner variant to feature (and retain) several key characteristics emblematic of the earlier Submariner references that came before it. Notably, it was the final Submariner to sport a no-crown guard (NCG) design, a small 6mm crown, a 38mm case size, and a 100-meter depth rating (subsequent Submariners had depth ratings of 200 meters or more).
In addition to everything I have mentioned so far, the glossy gilt black dial is particularly striking, and the luminous markers seen here in this example have aged exceptionally well, beautifully complementing the subtle golden hue of the gilt dial. As the nickname suggests, this model features the addition of a small dollop of tritium at the 6:00 position, resembling an ‘exclamation’ mark. You see, the Ref. 5508 was produced during a time when the dangers of radium were becoming more widely understood by brands and the industry in general. In response to this, Rolex began using tritium, which has a much lower concentration of radiation on the later batches of Ref. 5508s. This practice aligns with the production year of our example, which dates back to 1962, the final year of the Ref. 5508’s production.
As someone who has pursued and offered many modern and vintage Rolexes over the years, I can conclusively say that the allure of early Submariner designs is hard to resist. There’s a certain badass quality about them that modern versions just simply cannot replicate, and I believe many collectors would agree with me. These early Submariners embody traits and design elements from a bygone era of the brand that have significantly influenced the development of the modern Submariners we all know and love today. Furthermore, like most Rolex Submariners—both modern and vintage—this Ref. 5508 remains an incredibly versatile watch, which speaks volumes about its appeal and timelessness.
In the realm of vintage Rolex collecting, this Submariner Ref. 5508 is as exciting as it gets. It is, without a doubt, an excellent reference to get into for anyone serious about vintage Rolex.
