I think it goes without saying that the Rolex Submariner is historically one of the most recognisable and collectable watches ever produced—period. At some point in every enthusiast’s journey, a Submariner, whether modern or vintage, automatically becomes a benchmark for quality and collectability. However, what makes the early examples especially compelling is how clearly they reflect an era when Rolex prioritised durability and purpose-built design over luxury. That purity shaped the Submariner’s identity for decades, and even as the reference evolved through countless iterations, its lineage remains unmistakable.
This brings us to the Submariner 16808—a standout from the 16800 series and a reference that signalled Rolex’s shift from a strictly utilitarian dive watch to something more refined and luxurious. Produced from 1979 to 1988, it represents a transitional period where the Submariner blueprint began to embrace modernity, with a tougher sapphire crystal rated to 1000ft/300m, crisper case lines, and a new high-beat calibre with a quick-set date function.
To understand its place in the lineage, it helps to look back at its predecessor, the yellow-gold 1680/8, a reference that faced plenty of criticism when it debuted back in 1969. You see, many purists struggled with the idea of a solid-gold dive watch, arguing that it diluted the Submariner’s tool-watch roots. Rolex, however, recognised the direction the market was heading, refined the concept, pushed ahead and introduced the 16808—a reference that ultimately reshaped the identity of the gold Submariner and laid the groundwork for the modern luxury dive-watch archetype as we know it today. This particular example we have here is especially attractive thanks to its excellent overall condition and its matte black “nipple” dial, where the luminous plots sit in raised, domed gold surrounds, giving each hour marker that distinctive “nipple” profile collectors recognise immediately.
As briefly mentioned earlier, the 16808 houses an upgraded Cal. 3035, which was Rolex’s first high-beat, quick-set Submariner movement. Running at 28,800 vph with improved shock resistance and a larger balance wheel, it firmly laid down the foundational basis for the Cal. 3135 introduced later in 1988. As far as power reserve goes, the Cal. 3035 offers a 50-hour capacity on a full wind and remains a robust, easily serviced movement even to this day.
After handling more modern and vintage Rolexes than I can count, I can confidently say that the allure of early Submariners is hard to ignore. There’s a certain raw clarity to their design as well as its case proportions. Like most Submariners, both old and new, the 16808 is remarkably versatile, which says a lot about its enduring appeal. The 16808 carries that spirit while adding the presence of yellow gold and the clean punch of a black dial and bezel. I’ve said it before and will say it here again: black and yellow gold is one of those effortless combinations that never goes out of style, and on a vintage Rolex dive watch like this 16808, for some reason, it simply feels like a match made in heaven.
In the end, the 16808 represents a turning point in the Submariner’s evolution. Produced for just under a decade, it blends the warmth and character of early gold models with the technical refinements that would eventually go on to define the modern lineup. Where the 1680/8 stands as the quintessential plexi-era diver, the 16808 marks the moment Rolex fully embraced the Submariner’s design duality: a no-frills, capable tool watch with the presence and sophistication of a true luxury timepiece.
