Few references have shaped the history of the Rolex Submariner quite like the Ref. 1680. Introduced at the end of the 1960s, it represented the most significant evolution of Rolex's iconic dive watch since its debut in 1953, becoming the first Submariner to feature a date complication. While the addition of a date may seem commonplace today, it transformed the Submariner from a purpose-built professional dive watch into an everyday companion, broadening its appeal far beyond the underwater world. More than fifty years later, every modern Submariner Date can trace its lineage directly back to the Ref. 1680, cementing its place as one of the most historically important references in the collection.
Throughout the production of the Ref. 1680, Rolex introduced a number of subtle variations as the model evolved. Amongst these, the earliest examples have become collectively known as the "Red Submariner", distinguished by the single line of red "Submariner" text printed above the depth rating. Produced for only a relatively short period before Rolex transitioned to the later all-white dial, these early watches have become some of the most celebrated vintage sports Rolex references ever made. Their appeal extends far beyond a single line of coloured text. Combining matte tritium dials, acrylic crystals and beautifully proportioned cases, the Red Sub captures the character of vintage Rolex at a pivotal moment in the brand's history, before the transition to the glossy dials and white gold surrounds that would define later generations.
Here we have an exceptionally well-preserved Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 Red Sub. The stainless steel case remains in outstanding condition, retaining thick lugs, crisp factory bevels and beautifully defined proportions that are so often lost through repeated polishing over the decades. The watch is fitted with a Mk IV matte dial with beautifully aged tritium hour markers and hands, providing a wonderful warmth against the rich black dial.
The beauty of the Red Submariner lies in its restraint. Aside from the single line of red text, the watch remains unmistakably a classic Submariner, with every detail serving a functional purpose. The matte dial offers exceptional legibility, while the acrylic crystal lends a softness and warmth that sapphire could never quite replicate. Together with the honest ageing of the luminous material and the remarkably well-preserved case, the present example possesses the kind of character that can only be achieved through decades of careful ownership.
Powering the watch is Rolex's Calibre 1575, one of the manufacture's most respected automatic movements. Paired with the Oyster case, Twinlock screw-down crown and 200 metre water resistance, it remains one of the defining movements of the vintage Submariner era.
Adding further to the appeal of the present watch is its remarkable completeness. Accompanied by its original box, guarantee papers and brochure, it represents the kind of full-set example that has become increasingly difficult to source. While originality and condition will always define the very best vintage Rolex watches, the survival of an accompanying set of accessories only enhances the story of a watch that has clearly been cherished throughout its life.
