The Rolex GMT-Master needs little introduction. Developed in the 1950s for Pan American Airways pilots as commercial air travel expanded across continents, the GMT-Master was designed to display two time zones simultaneously, allowing crews to keep track of both local and home time at a glance. What began as a practical instrument for professional aviators has since evolved into one of Rolex's most enduring designs. Despite undergoing countless refinements since the inaugural reference 6542, the GMT-Master is instantly recognisable and widely regarded as the definitive companion for international travel.
Within the GMT-Master family, the Root Beer has always occupied a unique position. Rather than relying on bright colours or bold contrasts, it derives its appeal from a warmer palette that has become synonymous with the nickname. In 2018, Rolex reintroduced the Root Beer in the form of the GMT-Master II 126715CHNR, pairing a black and brown Cerachrom bezel with a full Everose gold case and bracelet. Although the underlying formula remained unchanged, the use of Everose gold transformed the personality of the watch. Introduced by Rolex in 2005, Everose is the brand's proprietary rose gold alloy, developed to retain its warm hue over time. While the colours themselves are modern, the overall aesthetic unmistakably recalls the earlier Root Beer references, with the Cerachrom bezel and Everose construction bringing the design firmly into the present.
What makes this reference particularly compelling is the cohesion of its design. The rich hue of Everose gold flows naturally into the brown half of the bezel, creating a remarkably harmonious aesthetic. Despite being rendered entirely in precious metal, the watch remains surprisingly understated. The black and brown bezel lacks the stark contrast of the Pepsi or Batman, giving the Root Beer a more measured presence on the wrist. The result is a watch that feels luxurious without becoming ostentatious, a balance Rolex has judged particularly well.
Powering the watch is Rolex's in-house Cal. 3285, a self-winding movement featuring an independently adjustable local hour hand, a second time zone display and approximately 70 hours of power reserve. Robust, reliable and intuitive to use, it remains one of the finest modern GMT movements available.
The appeal of the Root Beer has never rested solely on its distinctive colour scheme. Instead, it lies in how effortlessly it balances luxury with practicality. Beneath its Everose gold exterior remains the same capable GMT-Master that has accompanied generations of travellers across the globe. As John Mayer remarked during Hodinkee's inaugural episode of Talking Watches, "The GMT-Master is the best contemporary watch that Rolex makes," a sentiment I find difficult to argue against. Few complications prove as genuinely useful in everyday life, and fewer still are housed within a design that has endured for more than seventy years. Whether travelling overseas or coordinating with someone halfway across the world, the ability to check another time zone with a quick glance never loses its appeal. It is certainly faster than reaching for your phone.
