For a long time, the Roger Dubuis name was considered over and irrelevant to collectors. With today’s Dubuis watches defined by garish designs and awkward proportions, it’s easy to see why. The truth is, Roger Dubuis, the man himself, left the company in 2005. While he was undoubtedly a brilliant watchmaker, he lacked business acumen. It was this, not his craft, that led to the brand’s current state: emotionless and steered by executives with little to no passion for watchmaking.
You see, beneath this surface of failure lies some of the most beautiful watches ever made. For those who follow independent watchmaking closely, there is something very distinct and intriguing about early Roger Dubuis pieces. Compared to what we see today, the brand’s earlier chapter told a completely different story. Elegant in design and finished to the highest standards, these watches rivalled, and in some cases, even surpassed, horological contemporaries such as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Collectors are now beginning to recognise this, with more of these early examples appearing on the secondary market.
As an independent brand with true aspiration, there’s no denying that Dubuis helped pave the way for many of today’s renowned independent watchmakers. After nine years at Longines and two decades at Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995—a bold move at a time when starting an independent watch company in haute horlogerie was far from mainstream.
That said, Roger Dubuis produced two main lines: the Hommage series, which represented traditional round cases, and the Sympathie series, as seen here. The Sympathie was his most distinctive creation, defined by its unusual angular case and lug design that remains among some of the most recognizable case shapes of its era.
Crafted from 18-carat rose gold, the 37mm x 8.5mm Sympathie case is nothing short of mesmerising. As I briefly touched on earlier, its flowing contours resist conventional classification—it is neither tonneau, cushion, nor rectangular, but something entirely its own. The result is a piece of design that feels both sculptural and deliberate, a testament to Dubuis’ savoir faire in terms of proportion, symmetry, and coherence. The vertical brushing along the caseband and lugs contrasts elegantly with the mirror-polished bezel, pronounced fixing screws, and sharply executed lug hoods. Every surface reveals an extraordinary level of care and finish that speaks to Dubuis’ unwavering pursuit of perfection.
As someone who has deep respect for the Roger Dubuis name, the Sympathie has always been a model we champion, and having handled a handful of Sympathies over the years, this particular reference S37.57.5 remains one of my personal favourites. Like most Sympathie designs, this is a watch that rewards close inspection. The glossy black dial immediately stands out, paired with Breguet numerals in matching rose gold, while the layout makes excellent use of the unconventional shape, with a finely graduated minute track running along the periphery that carefully follows the contours of the unconventional dial and crystal. What often goes unnoticed is the geometric challenge behind a dial like this. With an irregular shape, every element must be positioned with precision to preserve balance and legibility, and achieving that harmony is far from straightforward. Completing the display is a pair of sharp dauphine hands, providing crisp contrast against the glossy black dial while maintaining the classical tone of the overall design. As a whole, every element on the dial feels impeccably balanced.
Powering the S37.57.0 from within is the Cal. RD57, a self-winding movement with an architecture as refined as the watch’s exterior. Based on the ultra-thin Nouvelle Lémania 8811/8816 ébauche, it is visible through the sapphire caseback and showcases black-polished screws, a swan-neck regulator, Côtes de Genève decoration, mirror-polished bevels, and a gold skeletonized Roger Dubuis emblem tastefully integrated onto its oscillating rotor. On top of this, the movement was rigorously tested by the Beşancon Observatory and certified to be of superior quality, as indicated on the dial.
When it comes to independent watchmaking, there’s something to be said about Roger Dubuis’ place in this complex yet fascinating world. His early pieces are simply stunning, deeply individualistic and effortlessly distinctive. They don’t scream for attention, yet reveal a wealth of character and nuance when examined up close. That’s the allure of early Roger Dubuis: they reward curiosity and those who take the time to look closer. Few brands have managed to channel such genuine artistry, creativity, and emotion through design quite like Dubuis did in those formative years.
Each watch from Dubuis’ original era was produced in limited editions of just 28 pieces, making this Sympathie S37.57.5 an exceptionally rare and meaningful example of what independent watchmaking once stood for: artistry, courage, and uncompromising execution.
