Arguably one of the most coveted watches of our time, the Simplicity appears simple and understated at first glance—but, as is often the case in independent haute horlogerie, there is far more beneath the surface. With only approximately a little over 200 pieces produced over the course of 12 years, it is an exceedingly rare and elusive creation, made all the more special by the fact that it comes from one of the most influential independent watchmakers the industry has ever known.
Philippe Dufour is widely regarded by many within the industry as a gentleman, a grandmaster of his craft, and a living legend. Born in 1948 in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux, he graduated from the École d’Horlogerie in 1967 and began his career at Jaeger-LeCoultre. He would go on to work with prestigious names such as Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet, and spent nearly two decades as an independent specialist focused on high complications and the restoration of antique timepieces. In the late 1980s, Dufour chose to pursue his vision, setting out on a path that would define him as one of the most respected independent watchmakers of our time.
Since establishing his eponymous brand, Dufour has produced only three series of timepieces: the Grande Sonnerie (1992), the Duality (1996), and the Simplicity (2000)—the latter being the series to which the watch offered here today belongs, and which many consider to be his ultimate legacy.
Released in 2000, the Simplicity may appear minimal from afar with its time-only display, yet it is celebrated as a masterpiece of the highest quality. Dufour once remarked that the Simplicity was created with the Japanese market in mind—a notion that makes perfect sense if you think about it, given Japan’s strong appreciation for refined minimalism and high-quality craftsmanship. Just consider brands like Naoya Hida, Kikuchi Nakagawa, Hajime Asaoka, and even Grand Seiko, all of which exemplify these values and design sensibilities. It is also worth noting that out of the 200 examples ever created, approximately 120 were sold to the Japanese market.
Offered here today is an example of the Simplicity from 2005, encased in a 34mm 18-carat white gold case which closely mirrors the specifications of Dufour’s personal Simplicity. The case itself is a technical marvel, particularly at the mid-section, where one can observe the sharply defined cleft between the lug flanks and the case band. This level of precision is achieved through a traditional and labour-intensive process: the lugs are crafted separately, then individually welded onto the case. Each joint is then meticulously hand-finished to remove any trace of soldering. While this method is both time-consuming and costly, in the case of the Simplicity, the results speak for themselves.
As the name suggests, the design is elegantly simple and visually balanced. It features a silvered sunburst-finished dial made by Metalem with a small seconds sub-dial at 6:00, a black-painted minute track, applied Arabic numerals and index markers, and intricate guilloché emanating from the center. Completing the ensemble are a pair of refined dauphine hands and a cartouche at 12:00 proudly bearing Dufour’s name.
Turn the watch over, and you’ll quickly understand why Dufour holds the legendary status he does today. Just look at the magnificent manual-winding Cal. 11 movement—its finishing is simply extraordinary. Take, for example, the Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes): while many brands apply them in a perfunctory manner—some even opting for stamped versions in lower-end executions—Dufour’s approach is altogether different. In the case of lesser movements, these stripes can sometimes be too narrow and hastily applied with abrasives. On the Simplicity, however, they are broad, dramatic, lustrous, and deeply grooved, reminiscent of feather barbs, and they display a remarkable gradation of light and shadow across their surfaces. In fact, they're so striking, you can even spot them from a distance, despite the modest proportions of the watch.
This level of finishing speaks volumes about Dufour’s approach and philosophy when it comes to finishing. Inspired by traditional Vallée de Joux movements, he employs time-honoured techniques, meticulously hand-finishing every component. Even the screws and their slots are black-polished and beveled by hand. No detail is too minor to perfect. The result is an impeccably finished movement that doesn’t merely keep time; it exemplifies the very essence of high-end artisanal watchmaking. As for its power reserve, the Cal. 11 can hold a charge of up to 52 hours on a full wind.
When this extraordinary piece first arrived at the office, I was completely taken aback—not just by its striking beauty or its superlative finishing, but by the sheer presence of a name that stands among the most revered in all of watchmaking: Philippe Dufour. This is the kind of watch spoken about in hushed, reverent tones—one you rarely have the opportunity to see, let alone experience firsthand.
Even for someone like me, who has spent years in pursuit of some of the world’s most elusive and exceptional timepieces, the Simplicity stands apart. It is, without question, one of the most remarkable watches I have ever had the privilege to handle. Every design element—from the case to the dial to the movement—reflects decades of honed skill, accumulated technical knowledge, and true artistry. Rarely does a timepiece so completely embody its maker, but in this instance, Philippe Dufour is unmistakably present in every line, finish, and flourish. As mentioned earlier, the Simplicity may appear modest and understated at first glance, but the weight it carries, in both craftsmanship and horological significance, is simply extraordinary. It is, arguably, one of the purest expressions of a dress watch in the world of high-end watchmaking.
With that in mind, it is not only a genuine delight but also my absolute pleasure to be able to offer this elusive example of mechanical art on the site today.
