Existing amongst some of their best-known watches, the Patek Philippe chronograph is a model that has always welcomed serious scrutiny from aficionados and collectors alike.
What we have on offer here today is the legendary 5070R chronograph, first released in 1998 as Patek Philippe’s first manually wound, chronograph-only watch since the 1463, which saw its production cease sometime in the 1960s. So, when Patek brought out the 5070 after a nearly 40-year absence of a manually wound chronograph model, it was considered a significant event in the watch world. Fun fact: the design of the 5070 was actually inspired by a rare, and possibly unique, aviator split-seconds chronograph—reference 2512—from the 1950s. That very watch was sold at Christie’s in 2000 for over USD 836,000.
Housed in an 18-carat rose gold case and paired with a stunning opaline dial featuring applied Arabic numerals, the 5070 effortlessly commands the attention of the room. With its bold, masculine proportions—measuring 42mm in diameter and 11.6mm thick—it stands out in any setting, yet never feels overly imposing. Thanks to its gently downturned lugs and wide stepped bezel, the watch maintains a nicely balanced overall aesthetic—sturdy, yet undeniably elegant. Though the 5070 marked Patek Philippe’s first production model with a case larger than 40mm, it remained quintessentially Patek at its core. It preserved the thoughtful and intricate nuances the Maison is celebrated for. Take, for example, the way the tachymeter scale encircles the dial, cleverly offsetting the dial’s broadness, or how the sub-dials subtly cut into the applied Arabic numerals—a charming little detail that showcases Patek’s mastery of visual balance, dial layout and overall proportions.
Personally, I find the 5070 a touch more appealing than its subsequent in-house successors. This preference stems from the fact that the 5070 was Patek Philippe’s final chronograph powered by the Cal. CH 27-70, which itself is derived from the venerable Lemania Cal. 2310 ébauche. For those familiar with it, the Lemania 2310 is widely regarded as one of the finest chronograph movements ever designed, having been used by prestigious brands ranging from Omega and Breguet to Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. While many timepieces share this base movement, Patek Philippe’s execution is arguably the finest, distinguished by its superior finishing and thoughtful yet pragmatic modifications.
The final 5070 models were produced in 2009 and were subsequently replaced by the 5170, featuring Patek Philippe’s in-house Cal. CH 29-535 PS. This model was later succeeded by the 5172. While today's watch world often places a lot of emphasis on in-house movements, and mostly with good reason, there remains a certain romantic allure to the Patek Philippe of the past, particularly in its use of the Lemania-based calibre. This nostalgic connection is a key reason why the 5070 remains so highly collectable today. In fact, and somewhat ironically, the 5070 is now regarded as more desirable than its in-house successors.
Overall, the 5070 stands out as a compelling example of a pure chronograph by Patek Philippe. Through this reference, one can glimpse a time when the brand was more willing to take risks in both design and approach. Though it may be something of an outlier within the traditional lineage of Patek chronographs, it still radiates a sense of grace and finesse that is unmistakably Patek Philippe.
