One of the bedrocks of the Patek Philippe collection is its classic dress watch – the Calatrava. A necessary foundation piece for any Haute Horlogerie brand, the dress watch is a must and with the Calatrava, Patek Philippe continues to build on its rich tradition to this day.
For a bit of historical context, we go back to the ’30s when Charles and Henri Stern purchased the Patek Philippe brand. To revamp the manufacture, the first model they produced is, of course, the Calatrava. The Ref. 96 came out in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to take over pocket watches and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe and you can tell that the Calatrava is still a staple design in the brand’s lineup of horological offerings.
Since then, there have been many iterations of the classic Calatrava, from varying case sizes to dial styles, with this particular example being one of my favourites. As a vintage watch guy, the Ref. 5296G really speaks to me because of its clean sector dial. Sector dials were quite prevalent in the 20th century, and there's an inherent charm and practicality in their design that resonates strongly with contemporary collectors. The blend of a 38mm white gold case, a two-tone silver dial, and blue accents create a winning combination.
Patek Philippe has managed to draw upon its past with this Ref. 5296G while bringing the present with its modern sizing and proportions. I would say that this Calatrava model can be likened to the Swiss army knife of watches, as it effortlessly adapts to various occasions with its modern sizing and proportions. Its versatility shines through, making it equally suitable for casual and formal settings.
