One of the bedrocks of the Patek Philippe collection is its classic dress watch—the Calatrava. A necessary foundation piece for any Haute Horlogerie brand, the dress watch archetype is a must and with the Calatrava, Patek Philippe continues to build on its rich tradition to this day.
For a bit of historical context, we have to go back to the ’30s when Charles and Henri Stern purchased the Patek Philippe brand. To revamp the manufacture, the first model they produced is, of course, the Calatrava. The Ref. 96 came in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to take over pocket watches and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe and you can tell that the Calatrava is still a very important model for them.
Here I have an exceptional example of a Calatrava Ref. 5023 in 18-carat yellow gold; a simple dress watch of elegant proportions and an understated design.
Produced only in yellow gold from 1995 to around 1998, the Ref. 5023 was a relatively short-lived model compared to some other Calatrava variants. As a quintessential example of Patek Philippe's dress watches, the Ref. 5023 embodies the brand’s signature elegance. It features a round case with a slim profile, a clean and classic dial, and gently curved lugs, reflecting the understated luxury of a Patek Philippe Calatrava.
Aesthetically, the Ref. 5023 evokes a distinct old-world charm that is just visually captivating. It features a vertically brushed silver dial housed within a brilliant 33mm yellow gold case, which is further complemented by a pair of classic dauphine hands and a small seconds at 6:00. If you look even closer, beneath the small seconds you will find a “σ SWISS MADE σ” signature. Here, the sigma symbol is intentionally used to signify the use of precious metal on the hands and hour markers, underscoring and emphasizing its inherent value. That said, while the 33mm case size might seem small by today’s standards, I think it represents the perfect proportions for a timeless dress watch like the Calatrava—anything larger would compromise its classic elegance.
From within, the Ref. 5023 is powered by an 18-jewelled, 10-ligne, manual-winding Cal. 215 PS (which stands for petite seconde), which was the very first calibre to house Patek Philippe's patented Gyromax balance wheel operating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
The Calatrava is widely regarded by enthusiasts as the epitome of the ideal dress watch, a sentiment I wholeheartedly share and agree with. It is remarkably simple in design but yet so incredibly easy to love and appreciate. With exceptionally timeless proportions and elegance, this Ref. 5023 is a great dress watch and one that remains understated, until someone who knows notices.
