One of the bedrocks of the Patek Philippe collection is its classic dress watch—the Calatrava. A necessary foundation piece for any Haute Horlogerie brand, the dress watch archetype is a must and with the Calatrava, Patek Philippe continues to build on its rich tradition to this day.
For a bit of historical context, we go back to the ’30s when Charles and Henri Stern purchased the Patek Philippe brand. To revamp the manufacture, the first model they produced is, of course, the Calatrava. The reference 96 came in 1932, at a time when wristwatches were beginning to take over pocket watches, and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still owns Patek Philippe, and you can tell that the Calatrava is still very important.
Speaking of importance, what we have here is arguably one of the finest Calatrava references to come out of the 1990s. This is the 3998, a reference that masterfully bridges the classic dress watch design with contemporary sensibilities, all while maintaining the cohesive, timeless aesthetic that defines the Calatrava lineage. Introduced in 1989, the 3998 remained in production until the mid-2000s and has evolved through three distinct series. The first, produced from 1989 to 1993, was powered by the Cal. 310 SC. The second series—of which this specimen is a part—featured the later-updated Cal. 315 SC. The third and final iteration began in 1996 and carried through to the end of the reference's production run. That said, this particular example is no regular 3998. This is the Calatrava 3998SR ‘Garrard 150th Anniversary’, released in 1993 as part of a 150-piece limited edition commemorating the 150th anniversary of Garrard, the prestigious British Crown Jeweller, who was also one of the Maison’s long-time retail partners in the United Kingdom.
Starting with its modest 33.5mm x 8mm rose gold case, the 3998SR might initially seem petite by today’s standards. However, the long, elegantly sculpted lugs allow it to wear noticeably larger than the dimensions suggest. In fact, this size strikes what I believe is the perfect balance for a dress watch like the Calatrava, as anything larger would risk compromising the classic, understated elegance that defines its enduring charm. It is also worth highlighting that the case was manufactured by Ateliers Réunis, Patek Philippe’s legendary in-house casemaker based in Geneva, and features hallmarks at both 9:00 and 6:00. As you can see from the pictures, the latter are particularly large and beautiful, reminiscent of the prominent hallmarks found on some of Patek’s second-series 3970 Perpetual Calendars.
Encased within this nicely proportioned rose gold case is a stunning salmon-colored dial adorned with beautifully raised Breguet hour markers and a matching set of Breguet hands. At a glance, you can easily tell there is something exceptionally synergistic about this combination; it imparts a great sense of visual balance and refinement to what is otherwise a simple dress watch, just as it does with the 3998SR. This level of nuance is a hallmark of Stern Créations, Patek Philippe’s longtime dial manufacturer, whose craftsmanship is evident in the way the rose gold and salmon tones are paired. It’s no accident; achieving this delicate balance takes generations of experience and expertise.
In the past, we’ve seen and handled watches with this same color-metal combination, and it is truly a challenging balancing act: lean too far in either direction and the watch risks appearing overly ostentatious or gaudy. But the 3998SR gets it just right. The hue of the salmon dial is soft yet delightfully vibrant, perfectly complementing the radiance and warmth of the rose gold case without overwhelming it. The result is a simple yet coherent piece of watch design that feels both refined and quietly confident despite its seemingly dainty proportions.
As I briefly touched on earlier, powering this 3998R from within is Patek’s Cal. 315 SC, a self-winding movement with a central seconds configuration, produced from 1984 to 2005. Like most Patek calibres, the Cal. 315 SC is impeccably finished, showcasing Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), polished bevels, and a beautifully crafted gold rotor. All of this can be admired through the specially personalised exhibition caseback created for Garrard. The movement offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours when fully wound.
The Calatrava is widely regarded as the epitome of the ideal dress watch—a sentiment I wholeheartedly share. But mind you: not all Calatravas are created equal. Some, like this 3998SR, were crafted with a specific commemorative purpose in mind and imbued with a touch of design flair that speaks directly to collectors’ hearts. This particular example stands out not only for its tasteful execution but also for its status as a limited edition, complete with an individually numbered caseback. And if that weren’t enough, it’s preserved in remarkably new old stock condition and comes as a super full set. Coming with its original presentation box (bearing royal warrants), newspaper advertisement cut-outs, booklets, original invoices, and an extract from the archives, this 3998SR is without a doubt the most complete and best example ever to come to market.
