One of the cornerstones of the Patek Philippe collection is its classic dress watch—the Calatrava. Every haute horlogerie brand needs a defining dress watch archetype, and for Patek, that role has always belonged to the Calatrava, which continues to embody the brand’s tradition of timeless elegance.
To understand its origins, we go back to the 1930s when Charles and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe. Their first major creation under new ownership was, fittingly, the Calatrava. Released in 1932, the reference 96 arrived at a pivotal moment when wristwatches were beginning to replace pocket watches, and it was a move that cemented their status as one of the eminent watch brands of the world. To this day, the Stern family still privately owns Patek Philippe, and you can tell that the Calatrava, and in particular this first reference, is very important to them.
Fast forward to the 1980s, under Philippe Stern’s leadership, the brand introduced the 3796. Often overlooked, the 3796 is effectively a one-to-one reinterpretation of the original reference 96; from its case size to its coin-edged bezel, everything feels faithful. Personally, I see it as both a fitting tribute to the Calatrava’s origins and a quiet nod to the Stern family’s stewardship of the brand.
That said, what we have here today is an exceptional variant of the 3796, which pairs a rose gold dial seamlessly with a rose gold case—a combination that just clicks. It imparts a distinctly classical and vintage aura, evoking the traditional aesthetic codes of the Art Deco era. While its 31mm x 7mm case might sound modest by today’s standards, its elongated lugs give it a surprising presence on the wrist.
The dial of the 3796R showcases a vertical satin-brushed texture, complemented by a metal-matching set of dauphine hands and appliqué baton indexes. Positioned at 6:00, a small-seconds sub-dial is discreetly incorporated, and if you look even closer, beneath this sub-dial, you will find a “σ SWISS MADE σ” signature. Here, the sigma symbol is intentionally used to signify the use of precious metal on the dial, underscoring its inherent value.
From within, the 3796R is powered by an 18-jewelled, 10-ligne, manual-winding Cal. 215 PS (petite seconde), which was the very first calibre to house Patek Philippe's patented Gyromax balance wheel operating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
To many, the Calatrava is the epitome of the ideal dress watch, a sentiment I wholeheartedly share. The 3796R is arguably the final iteration of the Calatrava series that most closely mirrors the original reference 96; pure, perfectly proportioned, and quietly elegant. It is the kind of watch that flies under the radar until the right person notices.
