The Patek Philippe Aquanaut needs no introduction. Launched in 1997 to attract a younger crowd, it was priced as an entry-level Patek Philippe made in stainless steel and equipped with a rubber strap. Marketed as a luxury sports watch and as a younger sibling to the Nautilus, it was not exactly loved when it was first released and it was seen as blasphemous to the identity of Patek Philippe. Fast forward to today and it is one of the hottest offerings from the manufacture.
I am sure all of you would know by now, that perhaps after the Nautilus, the Aquanaut is the hardest model to buy at retail with crazy waitlists. It is no secret that you have to buy many pieces from Patek before that will even let you onto the waitlist. This example you see here is a 5167R in 18ct rose gold.
I can’t deny that it is a fantastic watch on the wrist because of its spot-on proportions. Sized at 40mm and sitting with a super-thin 8.1mm thickness, it sits comfortably well and flat. On top of this, you get the classic world-class Patek case finishing with a satin-brushed bezel and sides and polished edges. The brown dial has an embossed checkerboard pattern, a date window aperture at the 3 o ‘clock position, and lume-filled Arabic numeral and markers, making it extremely legible. The integrated brown composite strap takes on the checkerboard pattern on the dial and looks very nicely in sync together with everything else on the watch. The material used for the strap is ultra-resistance to wear, saltwater, and UV radiation, and it is secured by the signature Patek Philippe fold-over clasp in matching 18ct rose gold.
Turn the 5167R over and you will find the in-house self-winding caliber 324 S C powering this watch, all displayed behind the sapphire exhibition caseback. It has a 21ct solid gold central rotor and excellent finishing throughout. This Aquanaut 5167R has a power reserve of 45 hours.
I am fairly certain you didn’t need to read the above for you to decide whether you love this piece or not. It is one of the most in-demand watches produced today and the perfect do-anything watch in my opinion. While steel is seen as the easier option, the rose gold version of the Aquanaut really elevates it to a new level, both in heft and luxury. It is not only because of the gold but also how it works with the brown dial and strap that makes it so much more interesting compared to its monochromatic steel counterpart.