The Patek Philippe Aquanaut needs no introduction. Launched in 1997 to attract a younger crowd, it was priced as an entry-level Patek Philippe made in stainless steel and equipped with a rubber strap. Marketed as a luxury sports watch and as a younger sibling to the Nautilus, it was not exactly loved when it was first released and it was seen as blasphemous to the identity of Patek Philippe. Fast forward to today and it is one of the hottest offerings from the manufacture.
I am sure all of you would know by now, that perhaps after the Nautilus, the Aquanaut is the hardest model to buy at retail with crazy waitlists. It is no secret that you have to buy many pieces from the brand before that will even let you onto the waitlist. This particular example you see here is a more serious variant of the conventional Aquanaut- the Ref. 5164A a.k.a Travel Time. First announced in 2011, this travel time really commanded a presence unlike any other as it was the first Aquanaut to feature a complication.
The 5164A is a casual sports watch for individuals who are constantly on the go. It features a GMT function that is indicated via a fourth hand and two distinct apertures on the black embossed dial that indicate home and local time. The GMT hand is independently adjustable via the pushers on the left side of the case which makes time setting super easy and convenient. You will also find a date register at 6 o ‘clock which aptly features a subtle global theme.
I can’t deny that it is a fantastic watch on the wrist. Sized at 40.8mm x 11mm (which actually appears smaller on the wrist), it sits comfortably well and flat. On top of this, you get the classic world-class Patek case finishing with a satin-brushed bezel and sides and polished edges. The black dial has an embossed checkerboard pattern and luminescent Arabic numerals and markers, making it extremely legible. The integrated rubber strap follows the dials pattern and looks very well together. The combination of all these design elements exudes a sense of synergy, which is absolutely gorgeous to see on the 5164A.
Powering this watch from within is the in-house, 29-jeweled, self-winding Cal. 324 C FUS, which is built atop the Cal. 324 S C originally found in the Nautilus. Turn the 5164A over on its caseback and you will be greeted with a solid gold central rotor and excellent finishing throughout. Furthermore, it also boasts a respectable power reserve of 45 hours.
I am sure you didn’t need to read the above for you to decide whether you love this piece or not. It is one of the most in-demand watches produced today and the perfect do-anything watch in my opinion.