Avid vintage Patek Philippe collectors/connoisseurs know that there was a time during the 1940s – 1950s when manufactures placed a lot of emphasis on case and lug design, which resulted in a myriad of unconventional designs which possess art deco elements. What we have on offer today is, perhaps, one of the most charming vintage Patek Philippes I have handled with a highly unusual lug design – the Ref. 2429 “Claw Lugs” in 18-carat yellow gold.
I have always believed that the lugs on a watch are just as important as the design on a dial. In some ways, lugs are like little arms; they reach out to hold a watch down on the wrist; they are undoubtedly an integral part of any watch in which its function would often dictate its form. Yet, they are so often underappreciated and overlooked, especially today when numbers on a spec sheet are overvalued and primarily used to determine the wearability of a watch. For the reasons I just elaborated on, I have always found mid-century designs with unconventional lugs an absolute treat to explore and admire with the Ref. 2429 being one such example.
When you think of a mid-century dress watch, you often think of a simple time-only design with a traditional round case, but what the Ref. 2429 offers is something beyond that. The “Claw Lugs” we see here are forged and soldered onto the case; they look slightly tapered when viewed from the top but are aggressively downturned, looking like fangs when viewed from the side. This lug design allows the Ref. 2429 to take on a certain artistic and ornate quality that is unmatched and seen in modern dress watches today. Given its rarity and unconventional design, there wasn’t much information about this particular reference, except the fact that several variations were made in different precious metals with varying dial configurations (different marker styles, diamond baguettes, etc).
From within, the Ref. 2429 is powered by an 18-jeweled, manual-winding Cal. 10-200, which was considered to be the best “10 ligne” movement of its time and the base caliber referenced in the development of the upcoming Cal. 12-600 AT (as seen in the Calatrava Ref. 2526).
At 33mm, many would argue that this Ref. 2429 may not be suitable for modern wrists, but I beg to differ. Back to my argument on why lug design is just as important as the dial – the “Claw Lugs” we see here on the Ref. 2429 are precisely what makes the watch wearable by modern standards. Ultimately, this Ref. 2429 is like a charismatic old gentleman who hails from a world of refined taste and distinction; it exudes a certain old-world charm and is as rare as it comes. With perfect proportions and elegance, this Ref. 2429 is a great dress watch and one that remains understated, until someone who knows notices.