Parmigiani Fleurier is an independent brand that has, in recent years, gained its status as an underdog in the world of watchmaking. In my mind, Parmigiani Fleurier is a “more than meets the eye” kind of manufacturer, they occupy an interesting space within the realm of Swiss watch brands. They are also a brand that draws most of its watchmaking expertise from the art of restoration. For that reason, Parmigiani Fleurier is not a brand you typically hear watch collectors often rave about, but what makes the manufacture so special is the fact that they have produced some unique and absolutely stunning watches over the past two decades.
Before establishing Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, Michel Parmigiani ran Mesure et Art du Temps, a restoration workshop in Couvet, Switzerland, where he gained renown for his expertise and trained future luminaries such as Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, and Raúl Pagès. Over time, he began crafting bespoke watches for clients, laying the foundation for the brand. Today, Parmigiani Fleurier stands as one of the most vertically integrated watchmakers in Switzerland, producing everything from balance springs to movement components, while continuing its tradition of restoring historically significant timepieces. These achievements have earned Michel Parmigiani recognition as one of the pioneers—and “fathers”—of independent watchmaking.
When you think of dual-time watches, the trusty Rolex GMT-Master immediately comes to mind, or at least, that’s the case for me. Yet the story does not end there, as the GMT complication in watchmaking has many interpretations. For those seeking something more unconventional and refined, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde emerges as a distinguished alternative, offering an elegant and unique expression of a watch with world-time functionality.
As someone who has handled and sought out many GMT-complication watches, I can confidently say there is nothing quite like the Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde. It starts with a 42.8mm x 14.16mm stainless steel case, which, while seemingly straightforward and understated, reveals a wealth of intricate details upon closer inspection. The knurled bezel recalls the architectural grandeur of Greek Doric columns, a testament to the classical orders of ancient Greece. The bold lugs, gracefully soldered with an inward curve, ensure a comfortable fit on wrists of all sizes, enhancing both wearability and ornamental allure.
Unlike conventional GMTs, the Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde allows two separate time zones to run entirely independently on its dial. At 12:00, a dedicated sub-dial displays its own hours and minutes, which can be finely adjusted through the secondary crown at 2:00. Pulling out this crown disconnects the module from the main movement, enabling precise alignment down to the minute. Pushing it back re-engages the mechanism, synchronising the second time zone with the first while preserving the chosen offset. This system makes it possible to set exact times for locations with half-hour or quarter-hour deviations from GMT, including Iran (UTC +3:30), select regions of Australia (UTC +8:45 and UTC +10:30), and most prominently India (UTC +5:30). It is a complication that combines technical thoroughness with contemporary refinement. It is perhaps excessive to some, but it is emblematic of Parmigiani Fleurier’s pursuit of uncompromising and inclusive watchmaking.
From a technical standpoint, this feat is made possible by the in-house, self-winding Cal. PF317, visible through the off-centered display caseback. The movement is fitted with a second time zone module developed by Agenhor, the acclaimed independent manufacture led by the legendary complication specialist Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. As expected from Parmigiani Fleurier, the finishing is meticulous, with beautiful Côtes de Genève, refined bevelling throughout, and a 22-carat gold rotor decorated with exquisite grain d’orge guilloché and emblazoned with Parmigiani Fleurier’s brand initials. Additionally, thanks to its double series architecture, the Cal. PF317 delivers a power reserve of up to 50 hours on a full wind.
Further enhancing the unusual dial layout of this watch is a 24-hour day/night indicator for the second time zone, placed asymmetrically to the right of the 12:00 sub-dial. The date is indicated by a retrograde hand with a vivid red crescent that sweeps across the lower half of the black opaline dial before snapping back 240 degrees to “1” at the end of each month. At 6:00, a running seconds sub-dial incorporates an additional 24-hour day/night indicator for the main time display. Both sub-dials are also partially recessed, providing visual contrast against the black, muted backdrop. Completing the composition are a pair of Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature javelin hands in pink gold, which echo the applied hour indices at the dial’s periphery and the contrasting ring surrounding the second time zone sub-dial at 12:00.
At its core, Parmigiani Fleurier, true to its reputation, is a watch manufacturer that delves deeper than mere surface appearances. Sure, the Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde’s aesthetics may not resonate universally with everyone, but I think that is precisely what makes the watch so intriguing. It demands a certain kind of connoisseur with a profound appreciation for haute horlogerie and a nuanced understanding of watch and movement design intricacies. For seasoned collectors who have seen and explored almost everything the vast world of watch collecting has to offer, I’d say the Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde stands out as a compelling choice to consider adding to their watch box.
As a final aside, it's also worth mentioning that the original pink gold version of the Toric Hemisphères Rétrograde earned the “Travel Time” award at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which is an honour often likened to the Oscars of the watchmaking world.
