Many of us tend to overlook the fact that the realm of high-end watchmaking extends far beyond the Swiss Jura mountains. In addition to Switzerland, Germany and Japan also hold their place of prominence in this arena. Among the Japanese independent brands, Naoya Hida stands firmly at the forefront.
Founded in 2018, Naoya Hida & Co. is a Tokyo-based atelier that reflects the vision of its founder, Hida-san. Having previously served as a representative for esteemed brands like F.P. Journe and Ralph Lauren in Japan, Hida-san brought a wealth of experience to his newly founded venture, as he sought to create highly limited timepieces that fuse classical design inspiration with modern technical proficiency. The result? A line of restrained yet exquisitely finished watches, like the NH Type 4A we have on offer here today.
Starting with the case, the Type 4A features refined Calatrava styling and proportions, measuring a modest 36mm x 11mm and is expertly crafted from 904L stainless steel, chosen for its superior corrosion resistance. The screw-down caseback here is adorned with a circular brushed finish, echoing classic watch designs from the 1950s and 1960s. Though understated at first glance, the case’s flawless finishing reveals Hida-san’s uncompromising approach to craft and detail.
Moving on to the stunning dial, the Type 4A beautifully marries vintage aesthetics with Japanese craftsmanship. Crafted from German silver, it recalls early Calatrava references with its engraved, sector-like inner circle—reminiscent of vintage Patek, Vacheron, Omega, and Longines designs. That said, when you compare this Type 4A to Hida-san’s other earlier releases, it becomes clear this model is, without a doubt, a contemporary watch at its core, thanks to the inclusion of a set of newly designed diamond-shaped hands. Adding to this visual, the silver-grey dial is also adorned with hand-engraved, black-filled, modern sans-serif Arabic numerals with a lustrous glossy sheen. This is achieved by carefully filling them with a synthetic lacquer called ‘Cashew’, as noted by Hida-san. Completing the composition is a thermally blued, hand-bent seconds hand, providing just the right amount of visual tension to offset the sterility of the dial. Needless to say, the execution of all design elements on this Type 4A dial is simply impeccable, achieving a level of ‘cleanliness’ that is almost second to none.
Powering the Type 4A is the manually wound NH Cal. 3020SS, a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 chosen for its proven reliability and ease of service. The automatic winding and chronograph mechanisms have been removed, along with the sub-seconds display, to accommodate an indirect central seconds hand. Hida’s team also designed new main and balance bridges, together with a custom winding click spring that recreates the tactile feel of vintage calibres. In terms of power reserve, the 22-jewel movement offers a charge of up to 45 hours on a full wind.
To me, Naoya Hida’s horological creations exemplify the Japanese approach to independent watchmaking—refined, deliberate, and focused on elevating simplicity through execution. It is a testament to their unwavering commitment to excellence and their deep understanding of the intricacies of their craft. Amid an industry largely driven by mass production, the quiet persistence of a small atelier like this feels both rare and meaningful.
While not officially a limited edition, only around 15 examples of the NH Type 4A were produced during the 2023–2024 cycle, making this an exceptionally uncommon reference to boot
