Establishing oneself as an independent watch brand is no small undertaking. In a market greatly saturated with a vast array of watches and dominated by longstanding Swiss watchmaking juggernauts, the odds are typically overwhelmingly stacked against newcomers. History has repeatedly shown that many independent brands have struggled to survive, with some absorbed by larger conglomerates and others quietly disappearing altogether.
That said, if there’s one brand that has truly defied these odds through original thinking and an unwavering commitment to quality, that would be MING. Established in 2017 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Ming Thein founded his eponymous brand with the intention of creating watches that satiated his obsessive desire for perfection while maintaining a price point that remained fair and relatively accessible. With years of involvement in the watch industry, both as a passionate enthusiast and a professional commercial photographer, he amassed vast knowledge of watchmaking and design, culminating in the release of the inaugural 17.01 in 2017.
Long-time MING enthusiasts will know that the 19 Series represented some of the brand’s finest work; it was a period where MING fearlessly flexed its design muscles and demonstrated to the watch world what it was technically capable of. Among the standout models, the 19.02 Worldtimer, first introduced in 2019, has always held a special place for me, and likely for many other avid MING fans as well. With its ideal case proportions, practical worldtimer complication, beautifully executed dial, and visually captivating movement, it offered an irresistible package. Fast forward to 2023, and MING returned to the worldtimer complication with a fresh perspective, ushering in a new chapter beginning with the 29.01. As the debut reference of the all-new 29 Series, the 29.01 builds on the legacy of its predecessor while setting the tone for what is to come.
As with so many of MING’s designs, the 29.01’s most distinctive feature is its dial. With the brand’s signature hands and sapphire treatment, it’s an absolute stunner. While worldtimers often appear cluttered with excessive text and numerical markers, the 29.01 stands out for its clarity and outstanding sense of depth and balance. This is achieved through careful spacing and layout, where every element on the dial is meticulously arranged and spaced to avoid visual fatigue. Despite the amount of information presented here, the dial still feels open, thoughtfully segmented, and never claustrophobic. I especially appreciate the decision to leave the central portion open, as it helps create a nice contrast and lends the entire design a welcome sense of breathability. It’s a remarkably palatable layout, and no easy feat for a worldtimer complication.
In true MING fashion, the dial of the 29.01 also features a sophisticated multi-layered construction. A sapphire top layer, paired with matching sapphire hands, sits above the metallic worldtimer disc, which showcases a subtle dark blue to black gradient meant to evoke the natural transition from day to night. Adding to the visual depth is the generous application of HyCeram ceramic infused with SuperLumiNova X1, which appears across the sapphire dial, the worldtime disc, and the hands. It is also worth noting the sapphire box that sits atop the dial. According to MING, this component is bonded directly onto the grade 5 titanium case body and serves both as the bezel and the crystal. The result is a rich three-dimensional presence that truly needs to be experienced in person to be fully appreciated.
Beyond its dial, the 29.01 is housed in a 40mm x 11.9mm case crafted from grade 5 titanium, featuring MING’s signature openworked flying blade lugs, which are seamlessly integrated into the caseback and secured by four individual screws. As far as case size goes, while the 40mm diameter may sound substantial on paper, the compact lug design ensures the watch wears comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes.
Just like its older sibling, the 19.02, the 29.01 is powered by a self-winding movement from Schwarz Ettienne that was exclusively designed and worked by Ming. In this case, it’s the Cal. ASE 222, which retains the micro-rotor and skeletonised barrel mechanism found in earlier versions. However, several components have been reworked—most notably, an entirely new bridge design finished with a combination of rhodium and contrasting stealthy DLC coating, accentuated by stunning diamond-cut anglage. As for power reserve, the Cal. ASE 222 delivers a charge of up to 70 hours on a full wind.
As a whole, the 29.01 Worldtimer is a truly stunning piece to wear on the wrist—compact, refined, pragmatic, and full of character. It is exactly what one would expect from one of the most respected independent watchmakers of our time, and proudly, of our nation. With a limited production of just 100 pieces released in 2023, it sold out fast, and it is not hard to see why.
