Headquartered in Dresden and founded in 2001 by Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne, Lang Heyne is a German independent watchmaker that takes the idea of traditional watchmaking to the next level. With a team of around eight watchmakers, Lang & Heyne create 50 or so timepieces a year – about as many as Rolex makes in 30 minutes.
When it comes to movement finishing and details, Lang & Heyne watches are some of the best made on the market. Released in 2013 at Baselword, the Friedrich III was inspired by the straightforward thinking of Freidrich III when, in 1349, he took over the regions of Thuringia and Meissen from his father. He would then go on to improve Wettin’s (later Saxony, Germany) political reach and wealth by developing public administration systems and internal policies. Taking this approach and putting it into the Friedrich III, it is a classically themed timepiece that is bursting with traditional aesthetics that speak to the timepiece’s inspiration.
Here I have a stainless steel Friedrich III that is perhaps the embodiment of a perfect modern dress watch. With its entirely polished circular 39.2mm case, the Freidrich III is understated, discreet, and elegant. Featuring a stunning frosted silver dial with elongated black roman numerals, the Freidrich III is as classy as it gets. With a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock and rose gold cathedral hands, the Freidrich III’s aesthetic is one of utmost craftsmanship and traditional design. Featuring Lang & Heyne’s signature triple lug case design, the Freidrich III remains easily recognizable for those in the know while escaping the brashness of some other brands.
Powered by Lang & Heyne’s in-house manual-wind cal. VI movement with 55 hours of power reserve and a stunning trigonal bridge, the Friedrich III excites the senses when you turn it around and gaze upon what lies beneath its exhibition caseback. Constructed of brass and featuring the traditional German frosting finishing technique alongside some stunning bevelling, a beautifully engraved balance cock, and the signature natural diamond on the balance staff, Lang & Heyne have remained true to the horological traditions within which they operate and created something truly special inside and out.