Created by Jacques-David LeCoultre in 1931, the Reverso was initially conceived to withstand the harsh beating a watch would endure during a game of polo. With the need for the watch to be more durable, the Reverso's genius reveals itself through its eponymous design—a reversible case. With its case able to be turned around on itself, the Reverso's dial can be protected while playing sports and returned to its natural position with a quick flick and slide. Thanks to its iconic heritage, the Reverso has evolved into one of Jaeger LeCoultre's most important design vehicles to date with a healthy number of contemporary variations to suit the palate of modern enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.
Presented today is a rare variant of the Reverso—the Reverso Chronograph Retrograde 270.2.69 in 18-carat rose gold. Released in 1996 with a worldwide production limited to 500 pieces, this Reverso has an aesthetic that is quite unlike any Reversos I’ve seen and handled before.
Before we dive into what makes the 270.2.69 so special, I believe it is important for us to preface this: at the time when the 270.2.69 was released, Jaeger LeCoultre had just survived a turbulent period known as the quartz crisis. The visionary Günter Blümlein, who oversaw Jaeger LeCoultre's operations at the time, recognized the manufacture’s exceptional technical potential stemming from its rich history as an in-house movement maker, which became pivotal in the brand's resurgence during the post-quartz crisis era. The 270.2.69 was subsequently unveiled as part of a series of six limited edition Reverso models launched between 1991 and 2000 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Reverso. These milestones contributed significantly to solidifying Jaeger LeCoultre's esteemed position within the industry as we know it today.
Starting with the Ref. 270.2.69’s 18-carat rose gold ‘Grande Taille’ style case, it measures a compact 42mm x 26mm in size and has a slim case profile of only 10mm. Like many Reverso models, the case is polished entirely and reveals a beautiful perlage and its hallmarks on the inner chassis. As for the primary silver dial, it is crafted from galvanised silver and showcases a set of blued steel hands, as well as a guilloché pattern in the centre portion. A tastefully positioned quick-set date window aperture can be found at 6:00, and a trapezoidal-shaped chronograph stop/run indicator at 5:00. Engaging the chronograph pusher causes the indicator to show 'Marche,' meaning 'run.' When the chronograph is stopped, the trapezoidal indicator then switches to 'Arret,' which signifies 'stop.' I find this quite a unique feature as it indicates to the user when it is safe to engage the chronograph reset pusher.
Upon flipping the dial to its opposite side, you will quickly realize that the secondary dial of the 270.2.69 is what makes this particular Reverso reference so special. Here, you'll be treated to a visually stunning view of the skeletonised 37-jewelled, manual-winding JLC Cal. 829, which was one of the first column wheel chronographs created after the quartz crisis. Mind you, this was before brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin had their own.
The Cal. 829 features two seamlessly recessed chronograph registers, brushed steel elements, delicate blued screws, meticulously executed anglage and Côtes de Genève on the rose gold gilded bridges, as well as a power reserve of 40 hours on a full wind.
What makes this particular movement even more remarkable is that it was purpose-built to fit this exact Reverso case, resulting in a proportionally perfect, rectangular in-house calibre. I highly doubt many brands today would be willing to invest in such a specialised undertaking. Although the main dial is meant to face outward when worn, I found myself having the chronograph side flipped forward most of the time just so I could admire the movement. It is by far the most captivating aspect of this watch.
I have to say, the 270.2 69 is simply magnificent. It is a rare and exceptional reference to the iconic Reverso with a visual appeal that sets it apart from the rest. For the true connoisseur, this 270.2.69 is undoubtedly one of the most coveted and sought-after variants of the Reverso, and with Jaeger-LeCoultre releasing a tribute model in 2023 after keeping this style dormant for so long, it will undoubtedly make the original even more desirable.
