Amongst the litany of independent brands that have popped up in recent years, only a few of them can compete with the timepieces that De Bethune has been creating. Although the brand has only been around for about two and a half decades, they are recognized as one of the most exciting and important independent watchmakers today. With a distinctive and unwavering design language, De Bethune has forged a powerful DNA, and the DB28 Titanium offered here today stands as a quintessential expression of the brand’s spirit and disruptive ethos in the horological world.
The DB28 is somewhat of a brand icon for De Bethune; it assumed the role of a catalogue constant, and it has been the brand’s creative canvas in showcasing the core values and design prowess of De Bethune. The first DB28 was introduced back in 2011, which also immediately won them an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and to this day, few watches capture the same combination of innovation and elegance. Its appeal is difficult to convey in words, but instantly apparent the moment you put one on your wrist.
Just like the design ethos of the rest of the DB28 line, the DB28 Titanium we have on offer today was conceived with a precise focus on ergonomics, finishing, and craftsmanship. Its highly polished grade 5 titanium case measures 42.6mm x 9.3mm and frames an open-worked dial of extraordinary architecture, centred on a deltoid-like barrel bridge. Interestingly, many initially assumed this design referenced the Starfleet Command insignia from Star Trek, but Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s co-founder, later revealed it was actually inspired by the shape of a leaf he saw during one of his walks near L’Auberson in the Jura mountains.
The open-worked dial itself is a masterpiece. It showcases an intricate array of contrasting and meticulously executed finishes, including the signature Côtes de Bethune stripping, symmetrically mirrored from left to right. Twelve polished, spherical-shaped hour markers encircle the dial’s periphery, with a discreet railway-style minute scale placed on the inner section. Additional features include hand-finished bridges, an exposed balance wheel with a black-polished titanium bridge, a power reserve indicator that mirrors the one on the caseback, and a 360-degree spherical moon phase display at 6:00. Made from palladium, the moon phase is said to be accurate to 122 years.
Without a doubt, this is a radically exceptional watch, both technically and aesthetically. There’s more, though—De Bethune’s 6-day double-barrel manual-winding Cal. DB2115, beats away methodically at 28,800 vph. The movement showcases an impressive array of cutting-edge technology, including a snail-perlage main plate, hand-polished and chamfered components, a temperature-compensating silicon balance spring, a two-armed silicon annular balance with platinum inertia blocks, and a silicon centre housed within a platinum ring. Additionally, the blued titanium balance wheel features six white gold mass inserts, which help reduce the parasitic effects of aerodynamic drag and temperature fluctuations on timing.
The movement also features a pair of self-regulating twin barrels and a triple pare-chute shock absorber system mounted directly onto the balance bridge, enhancing chronometry and overall durability. While admiring the caseback, you’ll notice a power reserve indicator with a "POWER" warning strip rendered in red. Visually, it’s a lot to take in, but it perfectly demonstrates De Bethune’s relentless pursuit of technical innovation and design excellence, making it a watch that is as thrilling to wear as it is to study in detail.
Despite its size and the sheer amount of technology packed into it, the DB28 Titanium feels remarkably light on the wrist, thanks to its titanium case construction. Like all DB28 variants, it also features De Bethune’s patented floating-lug system, which enhances fit and adapts seamlessly to the wearer’s wrist and movements.
As a whole, the DB28 stands as a compelling example of modern horological art. The level of craftsmanship, the sophistication of the movement, the intricacy of the dial, and the surprising wearability of the case all speak for themselves. It has been an absolute pleasure to be able to handle and now offer this beautiful piece of wearable mechanical art on the site.
