When we think of modern independent watchmaking, names like Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Roger Smith often come to mind. Independent horology has grown so much in stature that owning at least one piece is now considered a hallmark of serious collecting. That being said, before this wave of recognition, there was Daniel Roth, a watchmaker who, in many ways, helped lay the foundation for today’s independent movement.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and is responsible for many things we see in watchmaking today. For one, he was a leading figure who firmly established the design blueprint of the Breguet watches you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a shadow of its former self with seemingly no future until it was acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to take the helm. The reference 3130, with its guilloché dial and straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet’s rebirth. Beyond design, Roth also contributed to the development of complex movements at Lemania, which, may I remind you, still supplied chronograph calibres to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin until fairly recently.
Daniel Roth’s history can be divided into three distinct eras: the uncompromising independent years, a transitional period under The Hour Glass, one of Asia’s largest watch retailers, and the post-founder chapter following its sale to Bulgari. The early independent watches remain the most collectable, defined by precious-metal construction and a level of quality that left little room for compromise. After The Hour Glass acquired a majority stake in 1995, execution became inconsistent, and although some attractive pieces occasionally emerged, the brand’s original clarity began to blur and was somewhat diluted. Bulgari’s later stewardship during the third and final era retained the ellipso-curvex case but scaled and stylised it beyond recognition, effectively severing the link to Roth’s original design language.
Against this backdrop, a genuine revival of the Daniel Roth brand emerged in 2023, when LVMH, through its high-watchmaking manufacture La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva, reintroduced the name with the Tourbillon Souscription, a long-overdue course correction that reasserted Roth’s original proportions, discipline, and intent.
The watch offered here, the Tourbillon Rose Gold, builds directly on that foundation. Conceived as a regular-production follow-up to the Souscription model, it faithfully preserves the original design and proportions while introducing subtle technical refinements, and most notably, a newly developed exhibition caseback that reveals the DR001 tourbillon movement in full (more on this later).
The watch begins with its signature 35mm x 38mm ellipso-curvex rose gold case that has been thoughtfully refined for improved comfort and wearability. La Fabrique du Temps’ artistic director Matthieu Hegi noted that subtle adjustments were made to both the bezel-to-back ratio and the lug design, replacing the original’s angular forms with softly curved tips to improve wearability and create a more harmonious silhouette. The result is an exceptionally balanced case, with a presence that feels elegant and well- considered on any wrist.
Encased within is a stunning dial produced by Comblémine SA, Voutilainen’s renowned high-end dial-making atelier. The layout closely mirrors the original: a hand-engraved pinstripe / vertical ligne guilloché base in 5N rose gold, topped by a satin silver sub-dial with Roman numerals. All markings, texts and numerals are finished in a glossy, contrasting black lacquer coating which enhances overall depth and legibility. Above the one-minute tourbillon at 6:00, a set of tri-layered plates serves as stepped seconds scales, with the three arm-like pointers of varying lengths mounted to the tourbillon carriage taking turns to indicate the seconds as time passes, in turn, creating a unique and captivating display.
As briefly mentioned earlier, powering the Tourbillon Rose Gold from within is the newly developed DR001, a 19-jewel movement designed specifically to fit the ellipso-curvex case. The finishing is tastefully restrained and meticulously finished: Côtes de Genève adorn the large bridges with exquisite anglage on the edges, while perlage decorates the plates. The wheel driving the tourbillon is secured by a curved black-polished steel bridge between 3:00 and 4:00, with its pivot jewel set within a lustrous gold chaton. A linear winding click sits atop the barrel at 12:00, which is also black-polished. Thanks to the reworked case proportions, the movement sits noticeably closer to the exhibition caseback, offering an unhindered and immersive viewing experience, which I find extremely satisfying to look at. As for power reserve, the DR001 holds a charge of up to 80 hours on a full wind.
As an avid follower of Daniel Roth’s work and legacy, it’s incredibly rewarding to see the brand finally return to form. With LVMH’s support, his work is finally receiving the admiration and recognition it’s long deserved. I also think this provides a fantastic opportunity for a new generation of collectors to engage with a truly remarkable work of mechanical horology. Having handled the originals myself, I can confidently say this iteration stands proudly alongside them.
