When we think of the big independents today, names such as Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F. P. Journe, and Roger Smith come to mind. In fact, there is such a huge appreciation for independents today that it has become somewhat mainstream within collecting circles to own at least one watch from an independent brand.
Before all of this hype, though, there was Daniel Roth, which in my opinion, sits right at the top of the pyramid amongst the very best when it comes to independent brands.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and was responsible for many things you see in watchmaking today, but do not realise. For one, he was a leading figure who established the design language of Breguet dress watches that you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a below-average watch brand with seemingly no future, until they were acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to take the helm. The reference 3130, with its guilloché dial and its straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet and was during the time of Daniel Roth. Moreover, he played a significant role in producing complicated movements for Lemania, who, may I remind you, up until recently still provided the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin with chronograph calibres.
After that chapter of Roth’s life and entering into the ’90s, the independent brand ‘Daniel Roth’ began taking form. There are three significant periods in the history of the Daniel Roth brand: the early period when he was truly independent, the middle period when The Hour Glass was a stakeholder, and the final period when Bulgari took over and Daniel Roth left the company.
In 1995, Daniel Roth joined forces with The Hour Glass Group and the example you see here today hails from that period. While it's typically the earlier, independent-era Roth pieces that command the most attention among collectors, there are still several pieces from this period that I think are great and also deserve special recognition, such as this example. This Seconds at Six model manages to retain some excellent original Daniel Roth design traits that I find extremely desirable, including the classic anthracite pinstripe vertical guilloché dial reminiscent of his days in Breguet and a beautifully symmetrical design layout. The overall depth of the dial is accentuated further through the contrasting applied silver hour chapter ring, which hosts radially placed Roman numerals as well as thermally-blued hands that complete the elegant look, making this watch unmistakably a Roth, through and through.
In the past, I’ve repeatedly expressed my utter disappointment with the direction Daniel Roth took after being acquired by Bulgari in 2000, who incorporated his trademark ‘elipso-curvex’ case design into their own offerings but rebranded it with their style. Needless to say, those reinterpretations were terribly oversized, gaudy, and clearly lacked the elegance of the originals. However, with the brand's recent resurgence featuring the Tourbillon and Extra Plat Souscription models, as well as the new and stunning Tourbillon Rose Gold, I am elated to see that Daniel Roth is finally getting the recognition it truly deserves and is now one step closer to regaining its footing in the industry.
