When we think of the big independents today, names such as Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F. P. Journe, and Roger Smith come to mind. In fact, there is such a huge appreciation for independents today that it has become somewhat mainstream within collecting circles to own at least one watch from an independent brand.
Before all of this hype though, there was Daniel Roth, which in my opinion, sits right at the top of the pyramid amongst the very best when it comes to independent brands.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and was responsible for many things you see today but do not realize. For one, he was a leading figure who established the design language of Breguet dress watches that you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a below-average watch brand with seemingly no future, until they were acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to lead the helm. The Ref. 3130, with its guilloché dial and its straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet and was during the time of Daniel Roth. Moreover, he played a significant role in producing complicated movements for Lemania who, may I remind you, up until recently still provided the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin with chronograph calibers.
After that chapter of Roth’s life and entering into the ’90s, the independent brand ‘Daniel Roth’ began taking form. There are three distinct periods in the Daniel Roth brand, the early period when he was truly independent, the middle period when The Hour Glass was a stakeholder, and the final period when Bvlgari took over and Daniel Roth left the company.
The watch we have here today hails from the early period of Daniel Roth and it is also one of my favorites. Needless to say, first-generation Roths from this era are especially sought after by collectors and aficionados, revered not only for their historical significance but also for the exceptional craftsmanship they embody. Inspired by George Daniels’ One Minute Tourbillon Pocket Watch, the design of this Retrograde makes it one of the most unique from the collection. It showcases Roth’s signature ellipso-curvex case (a.k.a “double-ellipse” case) in platinum 950 and houses a manual-winding Lemania Cal. 27LN movement. The dial is adorned with an exquisitely finished vertical pinstripe guilloché, reminiscent of Roth's work during his tenure at Breguet, and features a beautifully symmetrical design layout with black Arabic numerals placed on a brushed semi-circular chapter ring. Completing the 2127’s elegant aesthetic is a set of lance-blued steel hands, accompanied by additional intersecting chapter rings for the minutes and small seconds tracks.
This example here is a prime representation of Daniel Roth’s hardship and persistence over the years with his craft. A very fine watch that would serve as a memento of all the extraordinary work done by one of the greatest independent watchmakers of our time, and a fine addition to any collection.
In the past, I’ve repeatedly expressed my utter disappointment with the direction Daniel Roth took after being acquired by Bvlgari, who incorporated his unique case design but rebranded it with their own style. These reinterpretations were oversized, flashy, and lacked the elegance of the originals. However, with the brand's recent resurgence in 2023, highlighted by the introduction of the new Tourbillon Souscription, I am thrilled to see Daniel Roth finally receiving the recognition it has long deserved, and is now one step closer to regaining its footing in the industry once again.
