When we think of the big independents today, names such as Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Roger Smith come to mind. In fact, there is such a huge appreciation for independents today that it has become somewhat mainstream within collecting circles to own at least one watch from an independent brand.
Before all of this hype, though, there was Daniel Roth, which, in my opinion, sits right at the top of the pyramid amongst the very best when it comes to independent brands.
Daniel Roth was born into a family of watchmakers, making his path into horology almost inevitable. He began his career at Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, where he worked for seven years before moving on to Breguet during the Chaumet era. It was at Breguet that he truly refined and honed his skills.
To add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and was responsible for many things you see today but do not realise. For one, he was a leading figure who established the design language of Breguet dress watches that you see today. In the '60s and ’70s, Breguet had become a below-average watch brand with seemingly no future, until they were acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to take the helm. The 3130, with its guilloché dial and its straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet and was made during the time of Daniel Roth. Moreover, he played a significant role in producing complicated movements for Lemania, who, may I remind you, up until recently still provided the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin with magnificent chronograph calibres.
After that chapter of Roth’s life and entering the ’90s, the independent brand ‘Daniel Roth’ began taking form. The Daniel Roth brand has three distinct periods: the early period when he was truly independent, the middle period when The Hour Glass was a stakeholder, and the final period when Bulgari took over and Daniel Roth left the company.
The example of the 2147 Chronograph you see here today is perhaps one of the most iconic Roth models that hail from the formative years of the Daniel Roth brand. This period is not only the most collectable due to its historical significance, but also because the quality of the watches produced was unparalleled. With pieces crafted exclusively in precious metals, no corners were cut in the manufacturing process. It’s evident how much his time at Breguet influenced his designs. This watch features an elegant ‘ellipso-curvex’ case in 18-carat yellow gold with dimensions of 35mm x 38mm. Inside, it houses the high-quality Lemania Cal. 2320 movement, the same one used by esteemed brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet during that era. While most early Roth models featured solid case backs, this particular piece stands out and is rarer due to its sapphire exhibition case back, offering an unobstructed view of the expertly finished and intricately complicated Lemania movement.
The dial itself is another marvel on its own, crafted from 18-carat gold and featuring Roth’s signature pinstripe guilloché motif. The edges are knurled, adding a distinctive vintage appeal to the overall design that works beautifully. Atop the guilloché is an applied ring that holds the Roman hour markers and two sub-dials for the chronograph counters. The combination of these elements adds incredible visual depth to the watch.
After much success, 1995 marked the beginning of the second chapter for the brand. Although the exact reasons remain unclear, The Hour Glass, one of the world’s largest watch retailers, acquired a majority stake in the brand, and that was when things began to take a downturn. While some pieces from that era are still considered beautiful by many, the overall quality started to decline, and some questionable designs emerged. The story ultimately culminated in the final chapter when The Hour Glass was forced to sell Daniel Roth to Bulgari due to the Asian Financial Crisis, marking the end of any involvement from the brand's founder.
That being said, with the brand's recent resurgence in 2023 featuring the Tourbillon and Extra Plat Souscription models, as well as the new Tourbillon Rose Gold, I am elated to see that Daniel Roth is finally getting the recognition it truly deserves and is now one step closer to regaining its footing in the industry.
