While Chopard is predominantly recognised for its jewellery and more commercially oriented watches, its involvement in high-end mechanical watchmaking is considerably more significant than many realise. Under the direction of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard established its manufacture in Fleurier in 1996, with the ambition of producing movements capable of competing with the very best of traditional Swiss watchmaking. At a time when much of the industry remained reliant on movements supplied by external manufacturers, the decision to develop an entirely new in-house calibre was both ambitious and remarkably forward-thinking.
The result was the calibre 1.96, developed with the involvement of Michel Parmigiani and introduced in 1996. Featuring a beautifully finished micro-rotor movement, twin stacked mainspring barrels and an impressive 65-hour power reserve, the calibre combined technical sophistication with traditional haute horlogerie finishing. It was awarded both COSC chronometer certification and the prestigious Geneva Seal, an extraordinary achievement for a manufacture's inaugural movement. Even today, the calibre 1.96 is widely regarded as one of the finest automatic movements of its generation.
The first watch to house this movement was the L.U.C. 16/1860, introduced in 1997. Measuring approximately 37mm in diameter, it featured a beautifully proportioned case and an engine-turned solid gold dial produced by Metalem, the same specialist dial manufacturer that would later become associated with Philippe Dufour's Simplicity. With its restrained design, exceptional movement and relatively modest dimensions, the 16/1860 has since become one of the most appreciated neo-vintage dress watches among collectors.
However, what makes the early L.U.C. collection particularly fascinating is the existence of a small number of highly unusual variations, many of which appear to have been produced outside the regular catalogue. These watches retained the fundamental architecture and exceptional movement of the original 16/1860, but incorporated elaborate decorative treatments that reflected Chopard's considerable expertise as a jewellery house.
Here, we have an extraordinarily unusual example, the reference 17/1873/2 in 18-carat white gold. Based on the original 16/1860/2, this particular watch features a black dial with baguette diamond hour markers, a diamond-set bezel and, most unusually, a central section entirely set with pavé diamonds in place of the traditional engine-turned guilloché. It is a configuration that I have rarely encountered, and one that appears to belong to the small group of special-order or off-catalogue variations produced during Chopard's early L.U.C. years.
The case retains the classical proportions and familiar design of the original 1860, with its gently stepped bezel, relatively slender lugs and understated profile. However, the addition of diamonds around the bezel transforms its appearance considerably, introducing a more elaborate decorative element without fundamentally changing the proportions that made the original design so successful.
The dial is undoubtedly the most remarkable aspect of this particular example. While the regular 16/1860 is celebrated for its beautifully executed guilloché centre, here that entire section has been replaced by an intricate arrangement of pavé-set diamonds. Surrounding it is a contrasting black chapter ring, punctuated by baguette diamond hour markers that introduce a distinctly geometric quality to the design. The contrast between the dark dial, brilliant-cut pavé diamonds and more structured baguette markers is particularly attractive, with the different diamond cuts creating an unusual interplay of light and texture.
Turning the watch over reveals the calibre 1.96, one of the defining movements of modern Chopard watchmaking. Its 22-carat gold micro-rotor, beautifully decorated bridges, polished bevels and Geneva Seal finishing are a reminder that beneath the elaborate exterior lies exactly the same exceptional mechanical foundation that made the original 16/1860 so important.
The precise production numbers of the 17/1873/2 are not publicly documented, and very little information exists regarding this particular configuration. Given the unusual reference designation and the elaborate combination of diamond-setting techniques, it would appear to be an exceptionally rare variation, quite possibly produced as a special order rather than as part of the regular catalogue.
What I find particularly appealing about this watch is how successfully it brings together two very different aspects of Chopard's identity. On one hand, it retains the exceptional movement, classical proportions and historical significance of the original L.U.C. 1860. On the other, its elaborate diamond-set dial and bezel demonstrate the Maison's considerable expertise in high jewellery. The black dial provides a particularly effective contrast against the diamonds, while the restrained proportions of the original case prevent the design from becoming excessive. For collectors familiar with the regular 16/1860, this is an extraordinarily unusual interpretation of one of the most important watches in Chopard's modern history.
