As one of the world’s most iconic fashion houses, Chanel has created some truly remarkable timepieces over the years. Historically, however, Chanel has not been a primary brand destination for watch collectors and enthusiasts seeking horological innovation. While the J12 collection, launched in the early 2000s, offered some intriguing designs, it quickly became predominantly favoured by female wearers. That narrative shifted in 2016 when Chanel made a concerted effort to refocus on watchmaking for men with the introduction of the Monsieur de Chanel collection at Baselworld. This launch marked an ambitious attempt to blend the brand’s signature Parisian style with genuine technical expertise in watchmaking.
Introducing the Monsieur de Chanel Jump Hour H4799 in 18-carat white gold. What makes this reference especially significant to collectors and enthusiasts is that the watch was entirely designed and manufactured in-house by Chanel—a testament to the brand’s growing technical prowess and commitment to haute horlogerie.
Looking at the design as a whole, the H4799 feels both refreshingly original and confidently masculine, yet pure in its expression. Its 18-carat white gold case measures a contemporary 40mm x 10.4mm—an ideal size for modern wrists. Notably, the time display mechanism is fully integrated into the baseplate rather than built as separate modules, which contributes significantly to the H4799’s overall thinness and structural coherence.
Speaking of the dial, the H4799 features a jumping hour display prominently placed at the 6:00 position, distinguished by sleek contemporary typography and a tastefully framed octagonal window inspired by the Place Vendôme in Paris as well as the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle. Just above it sits a beautifully executed small seconds subdial, while a retrograde minute display arcs gracefully across the upper half of the dial. What makes this retrograde mechanism particularly compelling is its 240-degree arc, which is significantly more than the typical 180 degrees, and the fact that it can even be set in reverse, thanks to a clever blocking mechanism at zero. While subtle in function, these elements underscore the thoughtful and technically refined approach Chanel took in developing this watch.
Flip the watch over, and you’re greeted by Chanel’s first in-house, manually wound movement: the Calibre 1 which showcases a distinctly modern aesthetic, with most components finished in a combination of matte and glossy black ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) coating. This contemporary treatment not only enhances visual cohesion but also reflects Chanel’s horological philosophy: respecting traditional watchmaking while boldly embracing the modern and avant-garde. It’s also worth highlighting that the development of Calibre 1 began in 2011, with Chanel enlisting the expertise of acclaimed independent watchmaker and micro-engineer Romain Gauthier. His involvement in crafting several of the movement’s key components explains the visual parallels to his own horological creations. Despite its stealthy, blacked-out aesthetic, the movement offers a captivating visual experience. Displayed through a sapphire exhibition caseback, the Calibre 1 is composed of 170 components and features a free-sprung balance along with a twin-barrel architecture, allowing it to hold a robust 72-hour power reserve on a full wind.
Now, if you’re wondering why there’s a small lion motif subtly engraved on one of the bridges and on the crown, it’s because Chanel uses this symbol to signify its in-house movements. Why a lion? Beyond representing strength and power, it also serves as a quiet tribute to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, who was born under the Leo zodiac sign.
Released in 2016 alongside its beige gold counterpart (the H6596), the H4799 was limited to just 300 pieces total, 150 in each metal, making both variants exceptionally rare.
I genuinely believe the Monsieur de Chanel line succeeds in bridging the often elusive gap between haute fashion and haute horlogerie. This is by no means a fashion watch. For those in search of a high-end timepiece that embodies true watchmaking pedigree, distinctive design, and undeniable presence, the Monsieur de Chanel stands as a compelling statement piece, worthy of a place in any discerning collection.
