The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last century, it has long stood as a symbol of luxury and desire. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been regarded more as a design-driven brand than a purely horological one, with iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos celebrated for their aesthetics as much as their heritage. Even today, it’s the brand’s beautiful and unconventional forms that continue to attract collectors, giving Cartier a unique standing in the watch world that no other brand possesses.
The 90s was a turbulent decade for watchmaking as brands were gradually recovering from the quartz crisis with some experimenting and others playing it safe. As mechanical watchmaking regained interest, Cartier decided that it was time to show the world what they were capable of. With that in mind, Cartier launched the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) division, which was an initiative focused on recreating beloved models with high-quality movements, collaborating with renowned manufacturers like Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and others. Looking back, it was a pivotal and defining decision for the brand.
What we have here today is an exceptional example of a Cartier Tank Cintrée from the said CPCP era (between 1998–2008), with a case crafted from 18-carat yellow gold. For historical context, the Tank Cintrée made its debut in 1921, a mere two years following the introduction of the original Tank and has intermittently held its place in the brand's repertoire as an enduring offering ever since.
Of course, any Tank Cintrée would be special in its own right, irrespective of variant, but the CPCP version stands its ground as one of the most desirable Cartier pieces ever produced. While the platinum example is the holy grail with 50 pieces produced, the yellow gold version is not far behind with only 150 pieces produced, making it one of the most sought-after Cintrées in today’s market.
Offered as a more refined and graceful iteration of the Tank, the Tank Cintrée boasts a distinctive case profile characterized by a seemingly broad, elongated yet slender design (this example measuring 46mm x 23mm) with a subtle arch, seamlessly embracing any wrist it graces and effortlessly fitting under the cuff. As with all Cintrées, it’s nearly impossible to capture the elegance of the case in mere words. You only truly appreciate it once it’s on the wrist. I have never seen a watch sit so flush to my wrist before, and that is a testament to Cartier’s technical mastery of proportion and form.
When it comes to its matte silver dial, this Tank Cintrée encapsulates quintessential Cartier aesthetic codes, showcasing a lavish design with exploded Arabic numerals in black that fill up the space along the periphery, a contrasting Chermin de Fer minutes track, a set of blued steel apple-shaped hands, as well as a striking sapphire blue cabochon set on its beaded crown.
Powering the Tank Cintrée from within is Cartier's manual-winding Cal. 8780 MC, an ultra-thin movement that is based on the Jaeger LeCoultre Cal. 849 ébauche.
It’s no mystery why the Tank Cintrée remains Cartier’s flagship even to this day—it simply looks and wears like a dream. Undeniably, it’s one of the brand’s most renowned pieces and a cornerstone for any serious collector.
