Amongst the most famous watches lies a handful of timepieces that have stood the test of time for over an entire century. Released in 1917 and inspired by the tanks Louis Cartier saw on the western front in WWI, the Cartier Tank is a classic timepiece that has become one of the famed French jewellery Maison's most important collections. Over its long and storied past, it has taken on many different shapes, styles, sizes, colours, and so much more. In keeping with Cartier's devotion to the creative, the Tank Asymmetric was first released in 1936 as a classically styled watch that features its very own ode to the unique and wonderful.
For context, the 1930s were an interesting period for Cartier due to the Art Deco movement, which saw the iconic Tank design undergo a multitude of variations. Among these was the Tank Asymétrique, which was known as the “Parallélogramme” or “Losange” at the time as it fundamentally deviated from its conventional rectangular case shape. It was deemed a radical yet innovative design that was unlike anything the traditional watch market had seen at the time.
This particular example of the Tank Asymétrique we have here was conceived as part of Cartier’s NSO (New Special Order) program, an exclusive service available only to Cartier's most esteemed clients, allowing them to craft semi-custom Cartier timepieces using design options available within Cartier's catalogue. That said, the case design seen here remains faithful to the original, housed in a platinum 950 case measuring 47.15mm x 26.2mm x 6.38mm, and featuring the iconic Cartier ruby cabochon-set winding crown as well as a distinctive triple-lug construction. As a result of its 30-degree slanted case, its dial uses a vertical equator that spans from 11 o'clock to 4 o'clock, and the horizontal spans from 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock - making for quite a unique time-reading experience on the wrist.
Turning to its radially brushed champagne dial, this NSO Tank Asymétrique showcases an intriguing set of Eastern Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12, all harmoniously presented in a colour tone that beautifully matches the lustrous wine-red alligator leather strap. The dial is also further complemented by a set of blued épée (sword) hands for some visual contrast. Compared to the original Tank Asymétrique, this interpretation embraces a notably more minimalist design, offering a sleek and attractive interpretation which works exceptionally well with the Asymétrique’s unique case profile.
Powering this work of art from within is an ultra-thin, 19-jeweled, manual-wind Cartier Cal. 1917 MC which was originally developed for ladies’ wristwatches. It boasts a respectable 38-hour power reserve on a full wind.
The original Tank Asymétrique was initially introduced to drivers as a way of easing the task of reading the time, with the dial's offset design appearing to take a conventional layout once viewed while the wearing arm is outstretched, like it would be while holding a steering wheel. An eccentric niche within watchmaking, these elegant driver's watches hark back to the time when dash-mounted clocks in cars were rare, and taking one hand off the wheel to check the time may prove to be dangerous given the absence of power-steering.
That being said, even after all these years when the use case for such a specific and unique design has lost its significance and real-life applicability, the design of the Tank Asymétrique remains a strong statement piece to have ever graced the catalogues of the most celebrated French jewellery house. Why? Well, I think the magic of the Tank Asymétrique’s aesthetic and design lies in the way it tastefully leverages its unorthodox concept, and its very austere geometry, into a whole new identity that is beautiful, unique, and refreshing. In other words, the Tank Asymétrique is whimsical in design but extremely refined in execution. And that expression itself, speaks to the heart of many watch enthusiasts, collectors, and connoisseurs around the world.
