The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery/watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and it is a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other possesses.
For those who do not know, the history of the Cartier Santos dates back to 1904, and it is one of Cartier’s oldest collections and one that is entirely dedicated to men. The collection was named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines. The Cartier Santos is arguably the first men’s (and pilot) wristwatch ever made. Designed from scratch to be worn on the wrist and not a converted pocket watch like most from its era, the Santos is undoubtedly a significant watch for Cartier and the history of watchmaking in general. Since then, Cartier has been producing many different variations of the Santos.
Offered here today is quite an interesting version of the Santos: the Santos Dumont XL in yellow gold with distinctive Dumortierite numerals. Released by Cartier at Watches and Wonders 2023, this model was part of a special limited edition run which also included variants in platinum with jasper and rose gold with jade.
I must begin by noting that Cartier is a brand that is renowned for using some of the most intriguing material combinations in their modern offerings, and this Santos Dumont is a prime example. It possesses a distinct presence that’s hard to describe in mere words—the fusion of lustrous yellow gold with the rare Dumortierite creates an aesthetic that is intriguing, visually striking and truly unique.
As far as dimensions go, do not let the “XL” label fool you. In fact, the Santos-Dumont XL is actually relatively compact and wearable by modern standards measuring at only 46.6mm x 33.9mm x 7.5mm, including its lugs. That being said, while I generally don’t tend to gravitate towards yellow gold watches at this size, there’s an inexplicable charm to this unconventional dial that makes me want to reconsider. The cream-coloured dial features a hand-guilloché centre and a Chemin de Fer-style minute track along the periphery. Sandwiched between these two design elements is, obviously the star of the show—the stunning Dumortierite Roman numerals, rendered in a deep shade of blue that imparts a vitreous, veined and marble-like texture to the appearance of the numerals. For those unfamiliar, Dumortierite is a rare aluminium borosilicate mineral, typically found as fibrous inclusions within quartz crystals.
Powering this beauty from within is Cartier’s hand-wound Cal. 430 MC, a movement that is technically based on the ultra-thin (2.15mm) Piaget Cal. 430P, and holds a power reserve of 38 hours on a full wind.
Limited to just 200 pieces in this particular configuration, the Santos-Dumont XL ‘Dumortierite’ is both paradoxically subtle and remarkably distinct in its appearance. Again, the interplay of 18-carat yellow gold with the Dumortierite numerals creates a captivating synergy of colour tones, and I believe many Cartier enthusiasts will agree on the allure of this timepiece. Ultimately, this Santos-Dumont XL is a true pleasure to wear, and we are delighted to offer it today on the site.
