With the dawn of aviation around the corner, one Brazilian aviator saw the need for a particular kind of tool - a pilot’s watch. This aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, went to his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 and asked him to design a watch for use during flight. This watch became what we know and love today as the Cartier Santos-Dumont, the very first tool watch. Evolving through time as a wide-ranging collection, the Santos-Dumont has become one of watchmaking’s most iconic designs, famed for creating the humble wristwatch as we know it.
Still sold by Cartier to this day, the Santos-Dumont is the very pinnacle of timeless design. The reference I have here is the Ref. 1576, arguably one of the most desirable Cartier models of recent times. Featuring a polished-edged bezel sitting atop a satin-brushed case with polished bevelling, the Santos-Dumont’s case toys with the reflection of light in a playful manner. Fitted with a classic Cartier guilloché silver dial with black Roman numerals, a railroad minute track and blued steel hands, the Ref. 1576’s reflects light beautifully.
Moving on from the visuals, the Ref. 1576 houses the manually wound Cal. 021 MC movement within its 18-carat yellow gold case. Based on the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21, the Cal. 021 MC was designed to be the thinnest watch movement available at the time, allowing the Ref. 1576 to lay flat against its wearers’ wrist. Oscillating at either 18,000 vph or 21,600 vph, depending on the particular period the movement was made, the Cal. 021 MC boasts an impressive 42-hour power reserve given its tiny 20.4mm x 1.75mm profile.
With the recent resurgence of older Cartier pieces, the Santos-Dumont sits front and centre as one of the must-haves.
