The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and it is a unique position that no other watch brand possesses.
For those who do not know, the history of the Cartier Santos dates back to 1904 and is one of Cartier’s oldest collections entirely dedicated to men. The collection was named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines. The Cartier Santos is arguably the first men’s (and pilot) wristwatch ever made. Designed from scratch to be worn on the wrist and not a converted pocket watch like most from its era, the Santos is undoubtedly a significant watch for Cartier and the history of watchmaking in general. Since then, Cartier has been producing many different variations of the Santos.
What we have here today is not your typical Santos though; this is the Santos 'Carrée', which literally translates to "square" in French. Introduced during the late 1970s, it marked Cartier's transition to offering a more accessible stainless steel sports watch. The Carrée became famous for its unique square-shaped case, becoming somewhat of an icon during the 1980s and significantly contributing to Cartier's appeal among younger audiences. Additionally, the piece we’re showcasing today is a Ref. 2961 which features a unique configuration with a slate grey ‘ghost’ dial and is housed within a two-toned case of steel and gold.
Starting with its two-toned case, the construction is rather svelte and as elegant as it gets, measuring a modest 29mm x 41mm and featuring a warm gold bezel, gold bracelet link screws, and a variety of brushed surfaces accented by bevelled edges. The winding crown is adorned with Cartier’s signature sapphire blue cabochon and flanked by a pair of crown guards. For this particular reference, the vertically brushed slate grey dial tended to develop a ghosted appearance over time, as seen in our example, making the gold ‘Cartier’ logo at 12:00 and the 'Swiss' marking at 6:00 nearly invisible under certain lighting conditions. A discreet date window with a white contrasting wheel sits at 3:00 accompanied by a set of épée (sword) gold hands that perfectly complement the overall aesthetic.
Powering this Ref. 2961 from within is the self-winding Cartier Cal. 077 derived from the ETA Cal. 2671, and can hold a power reserve of up to 42 hours upon a full wind.
Amidst the ongoing resurgence of neo-vintage Cartier pieces, the Santos Carrée Ref. 2961 undoubtedly stands out as a hidden gem from the 1980s, a period just before Cartier predominantly transitioned to the mass production of watches with quartz movements. It is arguably one of the most coveted Santos references to own and would effortlessly complement any serious collector’s watch box and daily rotation.
