The name Cartier requires no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. Without taking away from its historical significance, I would say that when it comes to watches, Cartier has always been predominantly known as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one, with stunningly iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos all seen as important due to how it looks. In fact, to this day, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and it is a unique position in the watch brand hierarchy that no other brand possesses.
Amongst the most famous watches lies a handful of timepieces that have stood the test of time for over an entire century. Released in 1917 and inspired by the tanks Louis Cartier saw on the western front in WWI, the Cartier Tank is a classic timepiece that has become one of the famed French jewellery Maison's most important collections. Over its long and storied past, it has taken on many different shapes, styles, sizes, colours, and so much more. Offered here today is a modern take on perhaps the most iconic and emblematic model of Cartier that has been a sleeper in the Maison’s catalogue for the longest time – the Tank Normale.
Released in 2023 as part of Cartier’s Privé collection, this Tank Normale we have for you today is anything but normal, limited to just 200 pieces in this yellow-gold and leather strap combination. When I first held this watch in my hand, I was immediately drawn to its simple yet captivating beauty and vintage-inspired appearance (I’m a sucker for vintage reissues done right). As far as case design goes, the Privé Tank Normale pretty much speaks for itself - pure, elegant, and aptly restrained in construction. The case measures a well-balanced 32.6mm x 25.7mm and is constructed out of lustrous 18-carat yellow gold, completed with a characteristic sapphire cabochon-set winding crown. Encased within is a vertically brushed silver dial showcasing Cartier’s characteristic Roman numerals, a railroad-style minutes track and a set of thermally-blued épée (sword) hands, which was also seen on Tank Normales from the 1940s.
It is worth noting that the Privé Tank Normale has been thoughtfully updated with design elements to cater to modern preferences while remaining true and faithful to its original form from 1917 from its tastefully bevelled sapphire crystal as seen on the original to the brancards with finely satin-brushed areas and polished chamfers.
Powering the Privé Tank Normale from within is Cartier’s in-house, manual-winding Cal. 070, an ultra-compact movement that beats at a frequency of 25,200 bph and boasts a respectable 38-hour power reserve on a full wind.
Again, Cartier may not be primarily known for its high-end technical watchmaking history, but the Maison symbolizes something far more profound. Its designs carry a sense of transcendence that speaks to watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs across different generations. For me, this transcendence is epitomized in the Cartier Tank, even more so in its original and purest form–the Tank Normale. Renowned actor Henry Golding once remarked, “There's a certain charm to a dainty little gold men’s watch”, and I believe the Privé Tank Normale imbues this expression with a whole new meaning, especially in today’s context. There's just simply nothing quite like a nicely proportioned, gold Cartier Tank that pays appropriate tribute to its decorated past while also being modern enough to appeal to modern connoisseurs.
