The name Cartier needs no introduction. As one of the most influential and celebrated jewellery and watch brands of the last 100 years, it has always stood as a mark of luxury and desirability. While acknowledging its historical significance, it is also important to note that Cartier has traditionally been known more as a ‘design’ brand rather than a pure watchmaking one. Iconic models such as the Tank, the Crash, and the Santos are celebrated not only for their technical aspects but also for their stunning design. Even today, it is the beautiful and unconventional designs that attract collectors and secure Cartier’s unique position in the watch brand hierarchy.
Among the most famous watches, a few timepieces have withstood the test of time for over a century. Released in 1917 and inspired by the Renault tanks Louis Cartier observed on the Western Front during WWI, the Cartier Tank has become a classic timepiece and, to some extent, a cornerstone design for Cartier. It is also known today as one of the Maison’s most important and versatile collections. There is a certain elegance and opulence often associated with its design language. Given its long and storied history, it has taken on many shapes, styles, sizes, colours, and more, yet the versatility of its foundational design allows each model to embrace a distinct identity while remaining unmistakably a Cartier Tank at its core.
Here, we have a stunning example of a modern Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise in lustrous platinum 950. This model was introduced as part of the Cartier Privé collection at Watches and Wonders 2022 to mark the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise. First unveiled by the French Maison in 1922, the Tank Chinoise design emerged during a time when 'Far Eastern' aesthetics significantly influenced European design sensibilities. The term "Chinoise" translates from French to "Chinese," and this model reinterprets the iconic Tank design of 1917 by incorporating wide, pronounced horizontal bars above and below the dial, which overlap the brancards. These bars are inspired by lintels—horizontal beam-like structures found above entrances and doorways of Chinese and East Asian temples—the design of the case as a whole evokes the porticos or entry gates of these temples and their respective architectural elements.
Historically, the Tank Chinoise has always been a relatively rare design offering from Cartier, appearing infrequently in their catalogues since its debut in 1922. This rarity makes it notably elusive and highly collectable. As noted earlier, this platinum model is part of the 2022 Cartier Privé collection, released alongside two other limited-edition versions—one in platinum with diamonds and one in yellow gold, each limited to just 100 pieces.
Starting with a 39.5mm x 29mm platinum case, the Tank Chinoise Skeleton features an openworked dial with a meticulously skeletonized movement, adorned with intricate design elements inspired by the ornate lattices typically seen in traditional Chinese wooden windows. As you can see from the photos, the platinum version we have here is accentuated with a tasteful mix of blue and burgundy lacquer in alternating patterns, which I must emphasize, is impeccably applied, with smooth edges and a perfect visual contrast to the cool, icy platinum case.
Unlike the CPCP version, which stayed true to the original 1922 design, this Privé Tank Chinoise boasts a more modern rectangular case profile rather than the classic square shape. The restyled case is further enhanced by highly polished horizontal brancards that contrast strikingly with the brushed brancards on each side, adding a dynamic visual element to the Tank Chinoise’s overall aesthetic.
Powering the beautiful Tank Chinoise Skeleton from within is Cartier’s manual-winding Cal. 9627 MC, a movement specially developed for these Tank Chinoise Skeleton models. It is technically identical to the Cal. 430 MC that powered the regular, non-skeletonised Tank Chinoises and offers a power reserve of 38 hours on a full wind.
Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide in this exquisite platinum variant, I think the Tank Chinoise stands out as one of the most unique and rare Cartier Tank variants you can buy today. As an avid fan of the Cartier Tank myself, I can certainly appreciate how the Tank Chinoise offers a refreshing twist on a classic and timeless design, masterfully blending European and Eastern design sensibilities in a way that is distinctive, synergistic and seldom seen in other watch designs. With all that being said, I believe this piece is an exceptional example of a modern Tank reference that will undoubtedly appreciate over time and be cherished by collectors for years to come.
