Bold, unconventional and steeped in lore, the Cartier Pasha is a watch born from legend and reimagined for modern wrists. Its origins traces all the way back to 1932 when Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh, reportedly commissioned Louis Cartier to create a waterproof timepiece befitting his active lifestyle, which included swimming. It was a rare and one-of-a-kind request at the time, blending elegance with real world functionality.
Although no official archival record can confirm that such a specific watch was delivered at the time, the story endures in Cartier lore as the spiritual origin of the Pasha, a watch imagined to embody elegance, durability, and utility in a single package. Some scholarly sources have suggested that rather than the round-cased Pasha we know of today, the watch in question may have been a one-off rectangular Tank Étanche, featuring an innovative waterproofing system made possible by a newly developed screw-down crown cover. This forward-thinking detail positioned it as a precursor to the modern sports watch archetype. Inspired by this, the contemporary Pasha was introduced in 1985, brought to life by Gérald Genta, the prolific designer behind iconic watches such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Universal Genève Polerouter, among many others.
With its large, round case, the Pasha represented a striking departure from a Maison long celebrated for its ornate yet unconventional rectangular and square forms. A prominent screw-down crown cap, secured by a small chain, evokes the aesthetic of a vintage canteen bottle, which adds to its utilitarian charm. Most examples feature highly legible Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, with some models distinguished by a removable grid overlay known as the grille. In every respect, the Pasha stood in bold contrast to the classically proportioned Tank and Santos. Its confident proportions and unconventional details signaled a bold new direction for the esteemed Maison, one that embraced presence and practicality without sacrificing the elegance and purity of form that define Cartier.
Offered here today is a modern Pasha from the Maison’s refreshed lineup unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2020. The collection spanned a variety of case sizes and precious metal configurations, alongside standout pieces such as a bold skeletonised model and an exceptional skeleton tourbillon. While this particular example we have here may appear to be the simplest and, perhaps, most straightforward of the collection, I feel that that very simplicity is its greatest strength. In many ways, it represents the purest expression of the Pasha’s design ethos. Much like the iconic Tank, it requires no further embellishment—the core design fundamentals are so strong, so self-assured, that they speak entirely for themselves even in its most simple form. It is a watch that seemingly knows exactly what it is and feels no need to shout.
Just look at it: a round, stainless steel case measuring contemporary proportions of 41mm x 9.55mm, with a beautifully brushed mid-case band contrasting elegantly against the mirror-polished bezel. Classic Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 lend a sober, balanced feel, complemented by a pair of thermally blued hands at the centre that complete the composition with quiet flair. It is also worth mentioning that this iteration of the Pasha also integrates a touch of modern practicality within its signature Vendôme-style lugs. Like the latest Santos models, it features Cartier’s QuickSwitch mechanism, which allows its wearer to effortlessly change straps by pressing a discreet tab between the lugs. It’s an intuitive and thoughtful innovation that bridges timeless design with contemporary convenience.
Powered by Cartier’s self-winding Cal. 1847 MC, this solid and reliable workhorse movement is known for its enhanced resistance to magnetism. This technical resilience is achieved through the use of nickel-phosphorus alloys in the construction of the escapement, making it significantly less susceptible to external magnetic fields. As far as power reserve goes, the Cal. 1847 MC can hold a charge of up to 42 hours on a full wind, ensuring dependable performance throughout the duration of daily wear.
A product of royal utility and 1980s bravado, the Pasha de Cartier remains a design-forward icon that effortlessly balances heritage with quiet sophistication. It stands as one of the most distinctive and daring designs in Cartier’s portfolio, an outlier that, paradoxically, feels entirely and unmistakably Cartier. Clean, confident, and refined, this particular example of the Pasha proves that sometimes, less truly is more.
