Originally released in 2014, the Octo Finissimo burst onto the watchmaking scene as Bvlgari's latest entrant into the world of angular integrated bracelet timepieces inspired by Gerald Genta's signature design language. Since then, the Octo Finissimo has been Bvlgari's most often-used medium for horological and technical innovation. In such a short span of time, Bvlgari focused all of its efforts in the field of ultra-thin watchmaking as it continues to break the “world’s thinnest” record, again and again, even to this very day. We do not mean to sound like a broken record, but it is simply near-impossible with what Bvlgari has been achieving.
Offered here today is a unique piece of watch design that is guaranteed to turn heads—the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo ‘CarbonGold’ Automatic 103779 from Geneva Watch Days 2023.
Perhaps one of the most visually and technically intriguing models to emerge from the Octo Finissimo lineup to date, the fusion of carbon and gold in this model 103779 is not a completely new concept—Bvlgari introduced these two unlikely materials in their previous Carbon Gold series back in 1993. However, the design of the 103779 takes this idea to new heights, modernising it in a way never seen before. According to Fabrizio Buonamassa, the director of Bvlgari’s Watch Design Centre, it also represents the gradual evolution of the Octo Finissimo lineup as the brand continues to experiment with new materials to showcase its horological savoir-faire. That said, the thought of combining a precious material like gold with an exotic one like carbon certainly stirs emotion. After all, carbon and gold are chemically incompatible and diametrically opposed as raw materials. Yet, Bvlgari has found a way to effectively fuse the two, presenting them in a design format that is not only technically impressive but also aesthetically cohesive and stunning. It’s truly unlike anything I’ve seen before.
As indicated by its name, the 103779’s case, dial, and bracelet are crafted entirely from carbon and feature a sleek, modern aesthetic that bears little stylistic resemblance to its predecessors, aside from its ultra-thin profile and distinctive case shape, of course. Measuring a contemporary 40mm x 6.7mm, the 103779 wears remarkably well for a watch of its thinness. Instead of the typical carbon weaving, the entire watch is uniformly covered in signature grain lines that evoke a matte-finished forged carbon appearance or, to some extent, resemble smoke swirls set against a black surface, offering a sleek yet dynamic visual appeal. Completing the case construction is an accenting rose gold cartouche, flush-mounted on the left side of the mid-case, as well as a rose gold crown with a black ceramic insert on the right. Looking at the watch as a whole, the 103779 serves as a bold exploratory exercise in balancing the creative tension between the aggressive anthracite-colored carbon and the elegant lustre of rose gold. It not only showcases the brand’s technical mastery but also highlights the remarkable versatility of the Octo Finissimo template.
On the dial, you'll find a similar streaking pattern that creates a striking, dynamic backdrop for the subtle yet luxurious accents of rose gold. These touches are applied in tasteful proportions to the hands, hour markers, numerals, logo, and the running seconds, which is uniquely positioned at the 7:00 mark.
Powering the 103779 from within is Bvlgari’s in-house, self-winding BVL 138, an absolutely stunning movement featuring elaborately decorated rose gold bridges with Côtes de Genève and a micro-rotor crafted from rose gold-plated platinum. In terms of power reserve, the BVL 138 can hold a charge for up to 60 hours when fully wound.
Personally, I love it when watchmaking is approached with a purposeful challenge, especially when brands set out on a specific path to prove and push the boundaries of a particular concept. I believe Bvlgari has done just that with this updated ‘CarbonGold’ series. Instead of simply constructing a case with carbon, as some brands do, Bvlgari has taken this approach a step further, creating something that not only represents an evolution of a previous concept but also showcases the brand’s true technical capabilities. The dynamic tension between the materials is very fascinating, to say the least. From a distance, you see a seemingly large case with a rugged, aggressive exterior, but when you pick it up, it feels entirely different. If you’re looking for a watch that screams “wild card”, this is the one for you.
