If you’re in the know, the Blancpain brand we see today is far removed from what it was in the 1990s. During the closing years of the quartz crisis, the brand took a firm stance against quartz, leaned fully into mechanical watchmaking and built its entire identity around traditional complications. Under the stewardship of the legendary duo Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet, Blancpain produced a focused run of classically restrained, technically serious pieces through the late 80s and early 90s, later grouped as the ‘six masterpieces’: an ultra-thin, calendar moonphase, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, split seconds chronograph, and the flying tourbillon, here in the form of the reference 0023.
Starting with its unassuming 34mm Villeret-style case, the 0023 features a double-stepped bezel, a svelte and gently curved caseband, and tapered lugs that sit elegantly on the wrist. The design follows one of Blancpain’s most consistent case codes, prioritising proportion over visual weight. The compact dimensions and controlled lines keep the profile thin and place all emphasis on the dial. Roman numerals here are clean and evenly spaced, with the open tourbillon aperture set at 12:00, while the date indication at 9:00 and power reserve at 6:00 are both spaciously arranged to avoid crowding the dial.
Beneath that restrained exterior sits the manually wound Cal. 23, developed in collaboration with Vincent Calabrese, a celebrated watchmaker and co-founder of the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants). He is best known for creating the Corum Golden Bridge, which pioneered a minimalist, spatial approach to movement design. That approach is clearly reflected here in the Cal. 23, which was, at launch, among the earliest flying tourbillons adapted for a wristwatch and one of the thinnest, with the case measuring just 7.4mm.
From a technical standpoint, the tourbillon here is executed in a true flying configuration, with the cage supported only from the rear and left unobstructed on the dial side, exposing only the balance wheel and escapement. The concept traces back to Abraham-Louis Breguet, who invented the tourbillon in 1795 as a means to average out positional errors through constant rotation of the escapement. Here, that principle is adapted and applied with minimal visual interruption, using a compact rear bridge with a single ball bearing to support the tourbillon carriage from underneath. Despite its ultra-thin architecture, the Cal. 23 delivers a whopping eight-day power reserve on a full wind.
Produced in a total run of 99 pieces across yellow gold, white gold, and platinum, the 0023 is a reference that reflects Blancpain’s post-quartz revival, when the focus was purely on advancing traditional watchmaking without spectacle. On the wrist, it does not present as an eye-catching showpiece, but rather a quiet demonstration of the brand’s technical capability to produce something of this calibre, and that is precisely the point. If you know, you know.
Through the caseback, the tourbillon remains the only visible component, with engravings beneath the aperture window indicating its serial number, here numbered “1”, which I think is a particularly desirable detail for a reference of this rarity and importance. It is also marked “three precious metals”, a detail which indicates that this piece was sold as a set with its white gold and platinum counterpart. The case shows honest wear, while the hallmarks remain sharp and fully legible, indicating how well it has been preserved.
In my mind, the 0023 is a strong representation of the spirit of 1990s watchmaking, a period that felt modern and progressive at the time as brands pushed to reestablish themselves after the quartz crisis, and one that continues to stand as a defining era for watchmaking in hindsight.
