If you're a fan of vintage chronographs, you're likely familiar with Universal Genève and perhaps even know a little about its connection to Berthoud Genève, a relationship similar to how Longines expanded globally through Wittnauer. For context, Universal Genève adopted the Berthoud name during the 1920s to 1940s, distributing watches across countries like France, the Netherlands, New Zealand, South Africa, and more.
To understand how Berthoud Genève became intertwined with the watchmaking legacy of Universal Genève, we need to revisit the late 19th century, specifically 1894, when Universal Genève was first established by Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse George Perret. From its inception, Universal Genève distinguished itself by producing high-quality, in-house movements. In 1897, Louis Edouard Berthoud, renowned for his design work on highly complicated movements, joined the company. His arrival marked a significant era for Universal Genève, helping to solidify its reputation as one of the most respected brands in complicated watchmaking, particularly in the realm of chronographs, such as the revered Compur and Compax lines—both highly sought after by collectors today.
The example showcased here features a sleek glossy black dial encased within a circular stainless steel case measuring 35mm, a size that aligns well with the resurgence of smaller cases in recent times. While it may be the norm today, black dials were fairly uncommon in the 20th century, making this example quite rare. As seen in the photographs, the dial design is elegantly simple, presenting information in a clear and uncluttered manner. Positioned on the left is a sub-dial for running seconds, complemented on the right by a 45-minute counter. The set of sword-style hands is filled with luminous material, which has developed a charming mustard-colored patina over time.
Despite not bearing the Universal Genève name on the dial, this watch is powered by Universal Genève’s own Cal. 385, a manual-winding chronograph movement renowned for its use in some of the more famous Universal Genève Compur and Compax references.
Considering the brand’s illustrious history, exceptional aesthetics, and use of outstanding mechanical movements, there is no doubt as to why vintage Berthoud Genève chronographs, like the example we have here, are some of the most collectable vintage chronographs in the vintage collecting space. It is truly a delight to offer this piece on our site today.
