The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet is one of the most distinctive watches in the market today. It is imposing and recognizable, and in my opinion, one of the best statement watches money can buy. On top of this, with the current craze for integrated bracelet sports watches and many brands producing their own version, it was the Royal Oak that started it all.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in the ’70s, the original Ref. 5402 was a bold stainless-steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was designed as a luxury sports watch and the scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly—the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era. People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly and consequently, it was not very popular. Only after some time did the public see this as something genuinely original and avant-garde. Today though, the Royal Oak is an icon.
What we have here today is perhaps, one of the most lavish-looking Royal Oaks to date—a reference that merges Audemars Piguet's technical prowess with artfully ornate embellishments and finishing techniques. This is the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked Ref. 15468BC (a mouthful, we know), first introduced at SIHH 2019, and was the standout Royal Oak of that year.
The Ref. 15468BC is truly a high-end luxury watch, and it has every right to be called one. The frosted case and bracelet are technical marvels in their own right. This distinctive frosted finish, also known as the ‘Florentine Finish,’ is created by the acclaimed Florentine jeweller Carolina Bucci. It involves a meticulous technique where a special diamond-tipped tool is used to repeatedly and consistently hammer the surface of the bracelet’s exterior, resulting in a captivating, gem-like sparkle. This entire process is done by hand, with each component receiving individual attention, reflecting the immense time and effort involved. Personally, I very much prefer this finishing technique to the flashy aftermarket diamond setting we usually see on the wrists of some artists on social media. While diamond setting is an art form in itself, the frosted finish represents a different level of artistry and craftsmanship. It is also worth noting that despite the elaborate frosted finish, both the case and bracelet still showcase the classic hallmarks of a Royal Oak, such as the mirror-polished bevels as well as the brushed texture on the mid-case.
Moving on, the Ref. 15468BC’s exquisite open-worked dial takes centre stage. From the photographs, you’ll see that the dial showcases rhodium-toned bridges with impeccable finishing throughout, as well as a double balance mechanism which has been elegantly accentuated by a distinctive bridge crafted from solid gold. An absolute feast for the eyes, the see-through dial unveils a plethora of mechanical components in full uncluttered view, fully embodying the "Openworked" essence in its name. The visually stunning movement (more on this later) can also be admired not only through the dial but also through the transparent caseback, which boasts stunning finishing and a splendid gold rotor with an engraved ‘AP’ logo.
Adding to this ensemble is the Royal Oak’s signature porthole-inspired octagonal bezel, embellished with 32 individual multi-colored baguette-cut sapphires that produce a dazzling rainbow effect from a distance. As seen here, each chosen sapphire is moderate in size to ensure that it complements the iconic bezel rather than overshadow it altogether. As far as proportions go, the case of this Ref. 15468BC features a very wearable size with modest dimensions of 37mm x 10mm, making it an exceptionally sized watch for most modern wrists.
Encased within the Ref. 15468BC is Audemars Piguet’s very own self-winding Cal. 3132, which is essentially a workhorse Cal. 3130 with the incorporation of a double balance module. For further context, the double balance mechanism was introduced and patented by Audemars Piguet back in 2016. By having a setup of two individual free-sprung balance wheels, the rotational inertia of the oscillator will also increase accordingly, resulting in a more stable, synchronized and regulated output of power, as well as reduced sensitivity to shocks. On a full wind, the Cal. 3132 can hold up to 45 hours of power reserve.
When it comes to artisanal embellishments on watches (especially those in a similar design realm as this), I frequently find that many brands tend to veer towards the excess, utilizing an overzealous amount of ornate elements (e.g. diamonds, etc) that often can detract from the purity of the original design and disrupt the overall visual balance. However, the Ref. 15468BC stands out with its impeccable aesthetic arrangement. It might seem ironic to say, but there's a remarkable sense of equilibrium and structure in the way the intricately skeletonized dial, frosted bracelet, and well-proportioned case all come together visually, ensuring that the Ref. 15468BC’s lavish appearance remains well-balanced throughout. After spending some time with it, it’s clear that the Ref. 15468BC is a masterclass in balancing some of Audemars Piguet’s mastery in artisanal and technical design. Once again, while the Ref. 15468BC might initially seem visually overwhelming at first glance, we assure you that it is a sensory overload in the most delightful way possible, and one that will continuously draw you back in for more.
