The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet, is one of the most visually distinctive watches in the market today. It is imposing and recognisable, and easily one of the best statement watches money can buy. On top of this, with the current craze for integrated bracelet sports watches and many brands producing their own version, it was the Royal Oak that started it all.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in 1972, the original 5402 was a bold stainless steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was designed as a ‘luxury’ sports watch, which was a genre that didn’t even exist at the time. The scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly, the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era.
People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly, and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde. Today, though, in line with the craze for stainless steel, the Royal Oak is an icon.
What we have here today is an intriguing example of a rarely seen Royal Oak reference—the 26330ST in 39mm. For some context, not long after the introduction of the original 5402, Audemars Piguet began extensively experimenting with ways to expand on the Royal Oak blueprint by incorporating different types of complications. From perpetual calendars to chronographs, the Royal Oak gradually evolved into a versatile platform that reflected collectors’ growing appetite for more complex yet functional timepieces.
Among the earliest of these efforts was the introduction of a combined day and date display, which appeared sometime in the early 1980s. For many years, this complication was reserved for the 36mm case (known as the 5572ST), a size that widely resonated with the broader market at the time. Eventually, Audemars Piguet adapted the day-date function to the full-sized format with the 26330ST, which is the watch offered here. Measuring 39mm x 10.5mm across, it faithfully preserved the proportions of the original 5402 while adding a more contemporary visual presence. Produced for a short period before being discontinued, the 26330ST remains the only 39mm Royal Oak Day-Date ever made.
As expected of any Royal Oak, the 26330ST carries that unmistakable blend of sportiness and elegance. Its angular case, sharply bevelled edges, and the interplay between brushed and polished finishes give it a refined, architectural presence on the wrist.
Adding to this, the day-date complication brings a distinct personality through its twin subdial layout at 3:00 and 9:00, each with contrasting silver concentric rings to display the day and date, which is an eye-catching symmetry that earned it the affectionate nickname “the Owl” among collectors. The black Grande Tapisserie dial further enhances the effect as its geometric weave interacts subtly with the light, while its applied 18-carat white gold hour markers and luminous Royal Oak hands ensure crisp legibility.
Powering the 26330ST from within is Audemars Piguet’s Cal. 2325/2810, a self-winding movement equipped with a day-date complication derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 889. When fully wound, it delivers a total power reserve of approximately 40 hours. To adjust the day and date indicators, the crown must be pulled to its outermost position. The date is set by moving the hands back and forth between the 10:00 and 2:00 positions, while the day is adjusted in the same manner, but between 11:00 and 1:00.
It’s also worth pointing out that this particular example features an especially interesting detail on its caseback—an extremely early case production number in the single digits (No.2). It’s safe to say that, given the already limited production run of this reference (although never officially confirmed, but estimated at just two to three years), such an early number only adds to its overall intrigue and collectability.
Overall, I think the Royal Oak 26330ST nails that sweet spot—practical enough to be used regularly, refined enough to remain elegant, and interesting enough to keep you looking twice, maybe even more; it is truly a balanced and distinctive watch in every sense.
