The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet is one of the most distinctive watches in the market today. It is aesthetically imposing and recognisable, and in my opinion, one of the best statement watches money can buy.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in 1972, the original Ref. 5402 was a bold stainless steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was designed as a luxury sports watch and the scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly — the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era. People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde, making the Royal Oak an icon.
As mentioned earlier, characterized by a striking case design that seamlessly blends a rounded octagonal bezel, a circular dial, and a tonneau shape, the Royal Oak stands out unmistakably, even amidst a dense crowd. That said, what we have here today isn’t just any Royal Oak. This is the Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 26240OR “50th Anniversary” edition, a commemorative edition released by Audemars Piguet in 2022 to celebrate the remarkable 50-year legacy of this model in production.
Starting with its strong and contemporarily sized 41mm 18-carat rose gold case, the finishing here is superb. For those unfamiliar, Royal Oak cases are a product of a particularly meticulous manufacturing process which starts with the shaping of the octagonal bezel and the circular aperture of the mid-case. The mid-case is then sandblasted, including the areas where the bracelet (or strap) will be attached. The signature octagonal bezel is then painstakingly polished to reveal its distinctive shine. Finally, the bezel undergoes satin brushing and is secured to the mid-case using the iconic hexagonal screws.
Moving on to its exquisite dial, the Ref. 26240OR showcases an enticing hue of Midnight Blue (termed "bleu nuit nuage 50" by Audemars Piguet, a.k.a “Midnight Blue Nuage 50”), enhanced by a 'Grande Tappisserie' motif, which lends the dial a subtle yet elegant shimmer when viewed under certain lighting conditions. Additionally, it features a 30-minute counter at 9:00, a 12-hour counter at 3:00, a running small seconds at 6:00, and a date window aperture placed at the 4:30 position.
Powering the Ref. 26240OR from within is Audemars Piguet’s very own self-winding Cal. 4401 flyback chronograph. Through its exhibition caseback, you’ll be treated to an appealing display of the Cal. 4401 which features a myriad of exquisite finishes such as your usual Côte de Genève striping, perlage detailing, meticulously bevelled and polished edges, and a unique 22-carat rose gold rotor featuring open-worked '50 Years' design, alluding to the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. It is also worth noting that this special rotor is only exclusively fitted on Royal Oaks produced in 2022. As far as the power reserve is concerned, the Cal. 4401 carries an impressive total capacity of 70 hours on a full wind.
Just like the other Royal Oaks we’ve handled and listed previously, there's always an enchanting allure to each one that's difficult to articulate in mere words. Similarly, with this Ref. 26240OR, I experienced that same mesmerizing effect, with its 'Grande Tappisserie' motif shimmering in the light, revealing a spectrum of hypnotic deep blue tones depending on the ambient lighting. It is truly a stunning watch. During my time with it, I frequently find myself entranced by the dial, utterly captivated by its beauty, often losing all sense of time as I gaze upon it.