The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet, is one of the most visually distinctive watches in the market today. It is imposing and recognisable, and easily one of the best statement watches money can buy. On top of this, with the current craze for integrated bracelet sports watches and many brands producing their own version, it was the Royal Oak that started it all.
The Royal Oak is not only famous for what it looks like, but also for how it was introduced. First released in 1972, the original 5402 was a bold stainless steel watch designed by Gerald Genta that created shockwaves. It was portrayed as a ‘luxury’ sports watch, which was a genre that didn’t even exist at the time. The scandalous part was that it was priced accordingly, the same as an equivalent gold watch of its era.
People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly, and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde. Today, though, in line with the craze for stainless steel, the Royal Oak is an icon.
What we have here is an intriguing and seldom seen Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet’s early Nick Faldo commemorative period. In 1992, AP introduced the first of three special editions, the 15090, celebrating the career and legacy of the legendary golfer. It was followed by the 15097OR in 1997, produced exclusively in rose gold with 375 pieces, and the 15190SP in 2002, a steel and platinum model with an exhibition caseback limited to 500 pieces. The most clearly documented reference from the initial release is the stainless steel 15090ST, limited to only 175 pieces. Yellow gold examples, such as the one seen here, are far less clearly recorded in AP literature. While their exact status and production numbers remain largely unconfirmed, their near absence from the secondary market strongly suggests that only very few were ever produced.
Aesthetically, there is just no mistaking a Royal Oak like this for anything else. This 15090BA, measuring 36mm x 8mm, belongs to the mid-sized Royal Oak family, a case size segment long overlooked but now gradually becoming increasingly valued by collectors. Like the early Royal Oaks, it retains the sportiness of the original 5402, but in a format that feels a bit more wearable and balanced on the wrist. Other signature elements, such as the octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and textured dial, combined with a full precious metal execution, enhances its visual appeal, while the angular case, sharply bevelled edges, and contrast between brushed and polished surfaces give it a refined, architectural presence.
Moving on to its dial design, I think the dial of this Royal Oak immediately sets it apart. It begins with a case-matching gold dial with a wide, flat sunburst chapter ring and a circular central zone embossed with AP’s signature Tapisserie pattern, evoking the texture of a golf ball; a subtle and clever nod to its namesake. The chapter ring also hosts ten applied hour markers and a discreet date window aperture at 3:00, complemented by a set of rounded baton hands that echo the shape of the markers. On the reverse, the caseback bears a stylistic engraving of Nick Faldo’s signature.
Powering the 15090BA from within is Audemars Piguet’s Cal. 2225, a self-winding movement that is derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 889. When fully wound, it delivers a total power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
It’s also worth pointing out that this particular example features a particularly intriguing detail on its caseback—an exceptionally early production number in the single digits (No. 8). As noted earlier, while the exact production figures for the 15090BA remain unconfirmed, it remains far rarer and more elusive than its stainless steel counterpart. An early number like this only heightens its overall allure and collectability.
As a whole, I genuinely think that this 15090BA is a compelling expression of the Royal Oak lineage. With its exceedingly rare provenance, strikingly beautiful dial, and elegant proportions, it strikes a perfect balance of being practical enough for regular wear, refined enough to remain elegant, and interesting enough to keep you looking twice, maybe even more.
