The Royal Oak, with its masculine octagonal case, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet is one of the most distinctive watches in the market today. It is imposing and recognizable, and in my opinion, one of the best statement watches money can buy. On top of this, with the current craze for integrated bracelet sports watches and many brands producing their own version, it was the Royal Oak that started it all.
People just could not accept that a pedestrian material such as steel could be priced so exorbitantly and consequently, it was not very popular. It was only after some time that the public saw this as something genuinely original and avant-garde. Today though, in line with the craze for high horology, sports watches, the Royal Oak is an icon. As Audemars Piguet famously stated in its marketing ad from the ’70s: ‘Would you buy a Rembrandt for its canvas?’
While it has always been about the ‘Jumbo’ or larger-sized Royal Oaks, in recent times, there has been a growing appreciation for mid-sized examples, namely what you see here today, the Ref. 14790. This is certainly in line with the large watch trend ending as collectors are beginning to appreciate proportionate and more elegantly sized watches.
Released in 1992, the Ref. 14790 was the poster child reference of mid-size Royal Oaks, staying in production far longer than any others, only being discontinued in 2006. Featuring a beautifully balanced 36mm case, the Ref. 14790 sits fantastically on the wrist and is certainly not too small even by modern standards.
Diving deeper into what makes this particular example especially unique, this is a Ref. 14790ST in stainless steel. It is identified as an early first-series Royal Oak with a D serial, featuring a Mk 1 dial with its distinct signature text font, long applied indices, the ‘Swiss Made’ stamping at 6:00, and the petite tapisserie motif. It is worth noting, however, that the handset fitted on this example is a thicker variant, typically found in the subsequent series. That being said, these thicker handsets were also used as service parts by Audemars Piguet, which explains why they sometimes appear fitted on some earlier examples of the Ref. 14790ST, possibly including this one. As for its iconic integrated bracelet, the links on first-series Ref. 14790STs are typically held together by two individual screws on each side and feature a hollow-style clasp resembling a ladder. The outer part of the clasp is stamped with ‘Swiss Made’ and ‘Steel Inox,’ along with the Gay Frères logo between the two stamps. For those who may not be aware, Gay Frères is considered one of the most legendary bracelet makers of the 20th century, having produced some of the most beautiful bracelets for the famous Royal Oak and Nautilus, as well as more classic designs that accompanied some of the most sought-after Patek Philippe references.
Powered by the in-house Audemars Piguet Cal. 2125 movement, the Ref. 14790ST features a 21-carat gold winding bidirectional winding rotor and a 40-hour power reserve on a full wind.
Another point worth discussing is the Ref. 14790ST’s tropical dial. For those unfamiliar, the dials fitted to Ref. 14790STs were anodized, rather than painted, to achieve a grey-bluish hue. This anodization process makes the dial more susceptible to tropicalization, which leads to a dramatic colour change. In this case, the dial has transitioned from its original colour to a stunning mix of bronze and gold. In general, tropicalized dials on watches are quite sought after, though their desirability depends on the colour shade and overall condition. It’s important to note that no two tropical dials are identical, as the colour change is largely influenced by the environment in which the watch was kept and the elements it was exposed to, such as UV exposure, and tritium burns, among others.
With its exceedingly rare provenance, beautifully tropicalized dial, and stunning proportions, this first series D-serial Ref. 14790ST will undoubtedly be an exquisite addition to even the most discerning Royal Oak collections. At a glance, one can tell that this 14790ST has likely lived a wild life—ah if only watches could talk; I'm sure this one would have plenty of stories to tell.
