Famed as one of watchmaking's most successful risk-takers, Audemars Piguet is renowned for incredible avant-garde timepieces pushing horological boundaries far beyond what most would consider reasonable.
When the Code 11.59 collection first debuted in 2019, it garnered a lot of criticism from enthusiasts and connoisseurs, akin to the initial public reception of the iconic Royal Oak upon its release in 1972. Much of this criticism centred around its somewhat underwhelming dial design and overall concept. However, what we have here today is, at least in my mind, probably one of the more intriguing and technically compelling models within the Code 11.59 series to date. Let me tell you why.
Offered here is the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar 26394OR, a design that seamlessly bridges over half a century of technical mastery and avant-garde design. This model draws its lineage from the pioneering Reference 5516, introduced in the mid-1950s as Audemars Piguet’s first perpetual calendar to include a leap year indication.
For context, the perpetual calendar is revered as one of watchmaking’s most technically sophisticated complications, capable of automatically adjusting itself for the variable lengths of months and the complexities of leap years. Once set, this movement will display accurate calendar information with no need for manual correction until the year 2100.
While this complication is no longer a novelty in today’s watchmaking landscape, the 26394OR continues to build upon this historic foundation, demonstrating the brand’s enduring commitment to innovation and its expertise in crafting some of the world’s most refined perpetual calendar complications. Blending tradition with cutting-edge craftsmanship, the 26394OR redefines what a perpetual calendar can represent in contemporary watchmaking, elevating it from a technical feat to a true artistic statement in modern horology.
Visually, there's a lot to unpack here. Starting with the 26394OR’s stunning rose gold case, which is meticulously crafted in three individual pieces and measures a contemporary size of 41mm x 10.9mm. As you may already know, the case has a unique style that is exclusive to Code 11.59 offerings. It is beautifully bevelled, featuring an interplay of satin brushing and mirror polishing on the mid-case section. Subtly integrated within is a semi-hidden octagonal mid case—an unmistakable nod to the Royal Oak—appearing as though it’s sandwiched between the upper and lower sections. The 26394OR also features a sapphire crystal which, when viewed from certain angles, reveals a unique double curved profile, dipping gently in the centre and flaring outward at the edges for an extraordinary, distortion-free visual of the striking dial. Needless to say, the attention to detail here is simply impeccable.
Turning to the dial, the rich, glossy aventurine backdrop immediately captures the eye with its celestial allure, evoking a starry night sky—an aesthetic echo of the astronomical roots of calendar complications. The layout is thoughtfully composed: a day indicator at 9:00, a date display at 3:00, a photorealistic moonphase at 6:00, and a combined month and leap year subdial at 12:00. These functions are easily adjustable via discreet corrector pushers, seamlessly integrated into the case at 2:00, 4:00, 8:00, and 10:00. Enhancing the dial’s elegance are radiant rose gold hands, applied baton hour markers, and a striking blue lacquered chapter ring that encircles the periphery, which also doubles as a 52-week calendar track. Despite its visual complexity, Audemars Piguet has achieved a remarkable sense of clarity and harmony in the arrangement, resulting in a dial that remains both legible and poetically evocative, mirroring the quiet grandeur of the cosmos.
At the heart of the 26394OR beats Audemars Piguet’s Cal. 5134, a self-winding movement comprising 365 components. This calibre is an evolution of the legendary Cal. 2121, itself derived from the esteemed Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 920—famously used in the original Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet has built upon this horological foundation by integrating an in-house perpetual calendar module. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the Cal. 5134 is a visual delight, showcasing a wealth of fine finishes: traditional Côtes de Genève striping, delicate perlage, expertly bevelled and polished edges, and a striking openworked 22-carat pink gold rotor. Beyond its allure, the movement also offers a robust 70-hour power reserve when fully wound.
Like many others, I wasn’t particularly moved when Audemars Piguet first unveiled the Code 11.59 collection a few years ago. However, after spending time with the 26394OR, I found my perception beginning to shift, particularly when it comes to the more complex, higher-end models like this one. I was repeatedly drawn to the mesmerising aventurine dial, which subtly transitions between deep blue and soft violet hues depending on the light. There’s an undeniable sense of visual harmony here; the dial’s symmetry and thoughtful layout make it incredibly satisfying to observe. The case construction, too, deserves recognition. With its unique architecture with evacuated lugs and overall high-level finishing, the 26394OR showcases just how much attention to detail has gone into refining the Code 11.59 design language. In person, the craftsmanship is undeniable, and it speaks to a level of refinement that goes far beyond initial impressions.
Overall, while the purist in me remains somewhat sceptical of the Code 11.59 collection as a whole, I must, once again, acknowledge the genuine merit found in its more intricate and elevated references, particularly the 26394OR. Every element of this timepiece feels exceptionally well-executed, from its architectural case design to the sophistication of its movement and complications. It’s one of those watches that truly needs to be experienced in person to grasp the full extent of its aesthetic and mechanical brilliance. And if, like me, you approached the original Code 11.59 lineup with some hesitation, spending time with the 26394OR might just challenge those preconceptions.
