When discussing independent Haute Horlogerie, it is impossible to overlook the work of Rexhep Rexhepi. Despite his youth, he is one of the most respected names in this realm, best known for the Chronomètre Contemporain under his eponymous brand. That being said, before ‘Rexhep Rexhepi’ the brand, there was ‘Akrivia’. While it is easy to see the success of the brand and the watchmaker today, Akrivia’s beginnings in 2012 was not so obvious. With avant-garde designs presented to a world not ready for hyper high-end independent watchmaking, it wasn’t until the late 2010’s when momentum started shifting.
For those only discovering his work today, that reputation began with the Akrivia AK-01 Tourbillon Monopusher, his first wristwatch unveiled at Baselworld 2013. Conceived as a highly technical and meticulously finished timepiece, the AK-01 showcased Rexhepi’s mastery and personal interpretation of traditional watchmaking through a form that is contemporary, distinctive, and boldly architectural.
At the time, independent watchmaking occupied a quiet corner of the industry. The audience was niche, expectations were unforgivingly high, and credibility had to be earned slowly. Most young independents tend to start out conservatively by experimenting within familiar forms and conventional complications before going on to attempt more ambitious designs. To launch instead with a highly complicated tourbillon monopusher chronograph as an inaugural piece was both bold and risky. For a young, unproven brand like Akrivia (which translates to “precision” in Greek) at the time, the AK-01 conveyed remarkable confidence and a clear declaration of intent and conviction, laying down the foundation for one of the most closely followed careers in modern independent watchmaking.
As you can see from the photos, the AK-01 immediately stands apart with its distinctive case design. Rather than a conventional round form, the U-shaped construction supports an unusual ovoid bezel and is flanked by a pair of sculptural “ears” on each side, with the right side serving as a crown guard for the recessed crown finished in clous de Paris knurling. Brushed titanium surfaces and wide, bevelled lugs reinforce the case’s entire architectural presence, establishing a blueprint that would later go on to define Akrivia’s signature design blueprint.
The watch’s aesthetics continue through its movement, the Cal. AK-01, a manual-winding calibre originally based on a chronograph tourbillon concept by the now-defunct Swiss movement manufacturer BNB Concepts. Rexhepi redesigned the calibre entirely, adding a new 63-part tourbillon cage with revised escape and clutch wheels and a 100-hour power reserve. Here, the one-minute flying tourbillon serves as both a visual and structural anchor. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the movement appears restrained at first glance, but a closer look reveals Rexhepi’s classical training at Patek Philippe and F.P. Journe through meticulous finishing. The two main bridges, decorated with sublime Côtes de Genève, align perfectly as if artfully carved from a single piece of metal, while the bridge supporting the central wheel is black-polished. Every edge is finished with mirrored anglage, and even the inscriptions—including place of manufacture origin and serial number—are hand-engraved.
Only after completing the movement did Rexhepi turn to the dial, which was a masterful demonstration in clarity and balance. The chronograph registers and bell-shaped tourbillon aperture are arranged symmetrically at 10:00, 2:00, and 6:00, respectively, creating a calm, ordered surface despite the technical complexity nestled beneath. A grey, marked minute track encircles the dial’s periphery, with a discreet power reserve indicator at 8:30. Partially open-worked, the dial offers several little glimpses of the movement through carefully positioned apertures. As expected, the quality of finishing demonstrated here on the dial is also impeccable throughout, with brushed and polished surfaces catching light subtly, while all of its engraved details add further depth without veering into excess.
As briefly mentioned earlier, when the AK-01 was first released, independent watchmaking was still a very different world. In hindsight, the watch represented more than just Rexhepi’s debut; it was the first pure expression of his vision, executed without compromise and driven by ambition. Having followed Rexhepi’s journey and aware of the adversity he faced in Akrivia’s early years, it is impossible not to reflect on how far he has come as a watchmaker. Every line, proportion, and detail seen here carries his DNA with unmistakable clarity. Even when it was laid out quietly on a table during our photography session, the watch commanded the attention of the room. Beyond a debut, it set a benchmark for what modern independent brands could achieve, proving that Akrivia could also stand alongside far older and more established brands in today’s watchmaking landscape.
In terms of production, the AK-01 represents Rexhepi’s earliest work in high horology. While he initially planned 12 pieces each in rose gold, stainless steel, and titanium, only approximately 13 pieces were ultimately produced across all metals. Today, with demand for Akrivia watches growing and with Rexhepi having previously indicated plans to retire the Akrivia name, this limited output underscores the AK-01’s rarity, cementing its status as one of the most elusive modern independent watches money can buy to date.
