When considering the leading players in the realm of high-end watchmaking, only a handful of prestigious brands come to mind: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and, of course, the neighbouring German brand from Glashütte, A. Lange & Söhne. While Swiss watches are often regarded as the epitome of watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne stands as a testament to the fact that this perception is not universally true. One can even say that in some areas, A. Lange & Söhne is considered much better than its Swiss counterparts.
What we have on offer today is a stunning and special example of an A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Ref. 223.026, crafted in 18-carat white gold and produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces back in 2006. For those unaware, this limited edition is a tribute to the late Walter Lange, a pivotal figure in the re-establishment of the Saxon watchmaker. To understand the lineage of this beautiful work of mechanical art, we must go back to the ‘90s.
Just three years after A. Lange & Söhne re-established itself in 1994, the renowned Saxon watchmaker decided to broaden its watchmaking portfolio with the introduction of the 1815 Up/Down—a design that embodies their modern interpretation of the elegant dress watch aesthetic. Featuring a utilitarian design and no-frills execution, the 1815 Up/Down draws inspiration from one of the earliest patents (No. 9349) the brand acquired in 1879. For context, the title description of this historical patent translates to "Device on pocket watches to detect whether the watch is wound up or wound down, or how long it has to run until it is completely out of time.", laying the foundation for the implementation of the Up/Down power reserve indicator seen in modern iterations of A. Lange & Söhne watches, such as this particular reference.
Beginning with its 18-carat white gold case in 37.5mm, the 1815 Up/Down is executed with clever details that may not be immediately obvious but embody the distinctive Lange character beloved by enthusiasts. It showcases a classical tri-stepped case construction comprising the caseback, mid-case band, and bezel, each meticulously and alternately finished to create visual contrast, as well as its signature flared lugs which feature a slight downward curve for wearability and wrist ergonomics.
Encased within its elegant white gold case is a beautifully refined silver dial. True to its classical styling, its silver dial is elegantly simplistic in design and features a railroad minutes track along its periphery, where each 5-minute interval is marked by a thick black dot and 15 minutes distinguished by a distinct tri-dot pattern—a design reminiscent of the Saxon Floral pattern typically seen on the region's famed porcelain. The dial is also graced with faceted, blued steel hands and black-painted Arabic numerals, followed by a running seconds indication via the off-centered and slightly recessed sub-dial on the right, while the other on the left indicates the power reserve (here: AB means empty, and AUF means full).
Just like any other A. Lange & Söhne timepiece, collectors all know that one of the best things about owning one is the opportunity to just turn the watch on its back and admire its movement in all of its glory. In the case of this Ref. 223.026, the exceptional manual-winding Cal. L942.1, is discreetly hidden from plain sight beneath a hunter-style caseback, which is hinged onto the case itself. Opening it reveals the Cal. L942.1 in all its splendor, as well as an engraving of Walter Lange’s signature on the inner section of the caseback. Crafted from German silver, the Cal. L942.1 and has a traditional three-quarter plate which hosts a myriad of high-level finishes and a hand-engraved balance cock to contrast the uniformity of the movement. It is also worth mentioning that the Cal. 942.1 holds a 45-hour power reserve on a full wind.
When discussing special editions from A. Lange & Söhne, the 1815 Up & Down ‘Walter Lange’ Ref. 223.026 undoubtedly ranks among the most coveted. It is undoubtedly a rare reference and I haven’t seen too many of these in the wild. Needless to say, the Ref. 223.026 is at its very core, an exemplary work of German horological artistry —a testament to A. Lange & Söhne’s uncompromising dedication to watch design and craftsmanship.
