{"product_id":"daniel-roth-chronograph-lemania-2147-clous-de-paris","title":"Daniel Roth Chronograph Lemania 2147 Clous De Paris","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eWhen we think of modern independent watchmaking, names like Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, F.P. Journe, and Roger Smith often come to mind. Independent horology has grown so much in stature that owning at least one piece is now considered a hallmark of serious collecting. That being said, before this wave of recognition, there was Daniel Roth, a watchmaker who, in many ways, helped lay the foundation for today’s independent movement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eTo add some context, Daniel Roth was one of the most talented watchmakers of his generation and is responsible for many things we see in watchmaking today. For one, he was a leading figure who firmly established the design language of the Breguet watches you see today. In the '60s and '70s, Breguet had become a shadow of its former self with seemingly no future until it was acquired by Chaumet, who in turn brought in Daniel Roth to take the helm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe reference 3130, with its guilloché dial and straight-lugged case, set the tone for Breguet’s rebirth. Beyond design, Roth also contributed to the development of complex movements at Lemania, which, may I remind you, continued to supply chronograph calibres to the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin until fairly recently.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe brand’s history unfolds in three distinct eras: the early independent years as Daniel Roth: the manufacture, its time under The Hour Glass, and the final chapter under Bulgari after Roth’s departure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe watch offered here is a first-generation 2147 chronograph from Roth’s earliest years, a time before corporate oversight when he was truly free to create as he pleased. More importantly, this particular example features the early Clous de Paris guilloché dial, a configuration that predates the more commonly seen 'ligne' or pinstripe guilloché dials found on later first-generation pieces. Produced in far smaller numbers and seldom encountered today, these Clous de Paris examples are among the rarest and most coveted iterations of the early 2147.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe pieces from this era remain, in my opinion, among the most original and beautiful designs ever made. While Roth’s technical brilliance is undisputed, I think what is often overlooked by many is his mastery of design, as well as his innate understanding of proportion, texture, and depth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eAt the heart of the Daniel Roth aesthetic lies the distinctive 'ellipso-curvex' case, a key design that almost single-handedly defined the brand’s unique identity. Made as a three-piece construction combining a rectangular mid-section with semicircular ends, it created a case silhouette unlike anything else seen in modern watchmaking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThat said, among the early models, few are as emblematic as the chronograph seen here. Its Breguet influence is evident, yet it carries Roth’s unmistakable signature. The 35mm x 38mm 18-carat yellow gold case houses the venerable Lemania Cal. 2320, the very same high-grade calibre used by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. While hidden behind a solid-gold case back, it is still expertly finished and decorated. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe dial itself is perhaps the highlight of the entire watch. Crafted from solid 18-carat gold, it features an early Clous de Paris hand-guilloché pattern, surrounded by a finely knurled outer edge that gives the watch a distinctly vintage appeal. Sitting atop the guilloché surface is an applied chapter ring housing the Roman hour markers, while the two recessed chronograph registers are integrated beautifully into the composition. The combination of these different levels, textures, and finishes gives the dial an incredible sense of depth that is difficult to appreciate fully until seen in person.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eWhat makes this dial particularly beautiful is the way it interacts with light. Paired with the warmth of the yellow gold case, its surface constantly changes in appearance, shifting from a soft champagne tone under certain lighting to subtle hues of pink under others. It is an enigmatic quality that photographs can never quite capture and, in my opinion, makes the Clous de Paris dial one of the most beautiful configurations ever produced by Daniel Roth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eAs I briefly mentioned earlier, this early period remains the most collectable, not only for its historical importance but also for the purity and quality of the watches produced. Every piece was made from precious metals, and no corners were cut. After several successful years, 1995 marked the brand’s second chapter. For reasons still unclear to this day, The Hour Glass, one of Asia’s largest watch retailers, acquired a majority stake in the company, and that was when things began to take a turn.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eWhile some undeniably beautiful creations followed, the overall quality began to decline, and a few design choices proved divisive. The story eventually culminated in The Hour Glass selling Daniel Roth to Bulgari during the Asian Financial Crisis, marking the end of any direct involvement by its founder. Bulgari then absorbed his trademark 'ellipso-curvex' case blueprint into its own lineup and scaled it up beyond recognition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eNeedless to say, those reinterpretations were oversized, gaudy, and clearly lacked the elegance of the originals, like this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThankfully, that era has given way to renewal. With Daniel Roth’s recent resurgence under La Fabrique du Temps and LVMH, and the introduction of the Tourbillon and Extra Plat Souscription models, I’m elated to see that Daniel Roth is finally returning to form and being celebrated for what it always was: one of the most important and original voices in the realm of high-end independent watchmaking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eAs a closing, this first-generation 2147 chronograph represents Daniel Roth at his purest, but its early Clous de Paris dial makes this particular example all the more special. Rarer, earlier, and, in my opinion, even more beautiful than the later pinstripe-dial variants, it stands as a wonderful representation of the artistry and distinctiveness that defined Roth’s earliest work, and we’re genuinely thrilled to be able to offer an example on the site today.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"1990's","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44173072334935,"sku":null,"price":80000.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1872\/9369\/files\/Daniel-Roth-Chronograph-Lemania-2147-YG-Clous-De-Paris-2_0118_Layer-12.png?v=1786925636","url":"https:\/\/www.ssongwatches.com\/products\/daniel-roth-chronograph-lemania-2147-clous-de-paris","provider":"S.Song Watches","version":"1.0","type":"link"}